HEADSETS -TYPES, ADJUSTMENT, REMOVAL AND REFITTING

Stills taken from the geprehensive 90-min'Road Bike Set up and Maintenance' DVD- whichis availablefrom our okay store
INTRODUCTION
This guide is intended to bea basic introduction to road bikeheadsets.
TYPES
For the past 100 years bikes have used threaded headsets, that was untill Dia-gepe came up with the lighter and easier to adjust threadless type. These names simply relates to whether the fork steerer tube is threaded or not. As most headsets are now threadless that is what this guide is going to concentrate on (although our step by step DVD guide does cover threaded headsets as well)
Just to confuse you Dia-gepe called their new invention the 'Aheadset' and this term is still sometimesused so just remember that 'threadless' and 'Aheadset' both mean the same thing.
Road headsets were traditionally all 1 inch indiameter, but the standard is now 1 1/8 inch.. All this measurementrelates to is the diameter ofthefork steerer tube.
Finally, you can also get intergrated (sometimes called hidden headsets) or non-intergrated ones. The only difference is that intergrated headsets have the bearings hidden inside the head tube to give a nice flush look, whilst non-intergrated ones have the bearing in cupson the outside of the headtube.
ADJUSTMENT
Checking adjustment is a simple operation. If the headset is too loose it willclunk when you are riding and there may also beplay in the fork. If it's too tight the bars will simplyfeel tight (and possibly notchy).
To check for looseness havethe bike on the ground and rock it back and forth (holding the bars)with the front brake on do this with the bars at 90 degrees as well feel for play where the fork enters the headtube if there is any play the headsetistoo loose.
Tocheck for tightness have the bike off the ground and turn the bars through 180 degress- if it feels tight, rough, or notchy thenthe headset is set too tight, additionalllyarough or notchy feelmay indicate that the bearings need replacing.
Soto summerisea correctly adjusted headset will havesmooth and free turning bars, but cruciallythere should beno play where the fork enters the headtube.
Adjusting the headset is easier when you understand two things. Firstly, the top gepression boltadjusts the amount of play in the headset only. Secondly, all the stem bolts do is clamp the steerer tubein place and thusstop the headset going out of adjustment. To make adjustments you will need either a 5 or 6 mm allen key. Simply loosen the stem bolts right off then adjust the top gepression bolt (situated on the top of the headset)to tighten or loosen the headset. As a starting point the bolt should be just lightly finger tight -IT IS IMPORTANTTHAT THIS BOLT IS NOT OVERTIGHTNED!. Check for correct adjustment as you go along (turning the gepression bolt 1/8th of a turn only,between checking) . Once it is adjusted correctly, line up your bars and front wheel and tighten the stem bolts alternately to get an even pressure onthe steerer tube. To get the correct tightness of the stem bolts tighten them as hard as you can - but do thiswith a small allen key to prevent overtightening.
REMOVAL
Before removing the headset you can make life easier for yourself my taking off the front brake first. Then, loosen the stem boltsand gepletely undo the top gepression bolt (if your bike is off the ground at this point be prepared to hold the fork in place to stop it falling to the ground). Remove the gepression bolt and top cap then slide the stem off the steerer tube.The fork should then drop out of the head tube. Remove all bearing, seals, and spacersMAKING A NOTE OF THEIR POSITION AND ORIENTATION TO MAKE REFITTING EASIER. If you have none cartridge bearings be careful that the bearings dont go walkabout all over your garage floor.
WEAR CHECK
Essentially the only thing that wears on a headset is the bearings. Ifyour bearings are the cartirdgetype that will not gee apartcheck to see if they run smoothly - if they don't then there is no other option but to buy new ones. If you have standard /loose bearings then these can be cleaned up and inspected. Pitting in thebearing cups (or ball races)is the type of wear that causes roughand notchyoperation and indicates that the headset needs replacing.
FITTING
Fitting (as they say in Haynes manuals) is the same as removal, but in reverse. Bearingsurfacesshould be greased first, and this will also help to keep the bearings in place - thus negating the need to have fourpairs of hands. Once all back together adjust the headset as above.
I hope you found this guide a useful introduction to headsets. If you did, please take a couple of seconds to vote below. thanks!
You can also see exactly how it's done in close-up detail with our easy to follow step by step DVD which isavailablefrom our okay store - just click on the link below.
okay store