Tuesday, September 27, 2011
Buying Vintage Jewelry Lots for Repair and Craft
In Vintage/Antique Jewelry - Costume - Retro - Collections/Lots, there are numerous craft and repair lots listed/ending daily. Before you buy, do a little research about the seller so that you know what you are getting. When you find a lot that interests you - search current and gepleted listings for the seller who is offering the item. You can obtain some pertinent information to let you decide if this lot is for you and how much to pay. First - does the seller offer mid-level jewerly items
FUJI SL (superlight) Under 16 lbs best alu bike there!
Wow, that is one word that describes the feel and ride of this wonderful bike. Fuji makes wonderful bikes and now it makes excellent bikes. I ride a FUJI SL (superlight), color of brushed alluminum, with Ultregra gepoenents. I took it my local 7% incline hill, and a ride that normally takes me 2 hours to do took me an hour and a half. I used to ride a cannondale R700 which was under 18 lbs, but this fuji blows it out of the water.Sure people might say that I can lose weight instead of spending the extra 500 dollars. Im sure you can, but im sorry to say that it IS the bike. The bike makes up the rider. My averages on this bike were 16.5, 16.8, and 17.1 on the same ride monday, wed, and thursday of last week. they were all 40 mile bike rides, the same averages I took on my heavier cannondale were 15.5, 16.0, 15.9. Almost a whole 1 mph difference in average.I have the 2005 version of the FUJI SL, which is very awsome looking. but the 2006 version is called the ROUBAIX SL which is as light as the FUJI SL! Do yourself a favor and ENDULGE in this wonderful bicycle. You will learn to love it, like I have. I am now just waiting for this terrible "winter" weather to die down before I can go ahead and endulge myself on a ride! thanks for reading!gepoenets: FULL ULtegra bicycke, SLK gepact carbon crank, and American Classic Super light hubs wheelset. freaking awsome bike!
COFFEE, WHAT YOU DIDN'T KNOW!
Coffee begins as a small green bean--with hardly any flavor or aroma until it's roasted--but it provides a living for over 25 million people around the world. Entire countries depend upon its production and trade.
In the harsh poverty of post war Europe coffee was even used as money. In the Wild West, brewed thick and strong on open fires, it was used by cowboys as sustenance.
Coffee has begee an essential part of life. Mornings need those rich, sensuous aromas. In the workplace we welgee the coffee break--a World War II innovation that recognized the value of coffee stimulation--as a way to "get sharp and keep going."
In fact, coffee has long been a source of inspiration and creativity. First brewed in the dark, smoky interiors of 17th-century coffee shops and cafes, coffee gave birth to ideas like the ballot box, tipping, and the New York Stock Exchange. Even the American Revolution was first brewed in the revolutionary talk of a coffee shop. In France a poor artillery officer, called NapoleonBonaparte, had to leave his three-cornered hat in a Paris cafe to guarantee unpaid coffee bills.
Today, in the US, each person will guzzle an average of seventeen gallons of coffee a year--making Americans some of the keenest coffee drinkers in the world. Whether it's instant or filter, sitting in or on the move, the small green bean--with its little kick of caffeine--is part of everyday life.
THE HISTORY OF COFFEE
Africa gave the world coffee. It grows wild even now in central Africa, and especially in Ethiopia, where people still prepare and drink coffee in a time-honored social ritual.
The first coffee wasn't roasted, ground or probably even drunk. Instead, people just chewed the cherries and green beans of wild coffee trees for the stimulant effect of the caffeine.
Coffee only became a drink sometime in the sixth century. People in parts of Ethiopia began making a wine fermented from the pulp of the coffee tree's fruit or cherrie. Coffee's name originates from this wine, or "qahwah" in Arabic.
At first, coffee spread through Muslim and Christian monasteries, and along the Arab trade routes from Ethiopia and Sudan into Arabia, including what is now Yemen.
THE FIRST COFFEE HOUSES. Coffee drinking spread first to Mecca, and then on to Constantinople (now Istanbul) in Turkey, and Damascus in Syria. It was here that the first coffee houses sprang up. They were places of gefort, with neat couches, where men played chess and tric trac. In the early 1500s in Cairo, Muslim dervishes were drinking coffee as part of their frenetic nighttime worship.
Coffee began to reach Europe around 1600. First the Italians, then the Dutch, Germans and English fell under the spell of the new drink. In the Italian city of Venice coffee, first regarded as medicine, began to replace fruit juices, cider, wines and teas made from various plants. The upper classes, the merchants, and professionals all gathered in the new coffee houses or "cafes," to be joined later in the evenings by women.
In England, the first written reference to coffee drinking is in 1635, at Balliol College, Oxford. Coffee became quickly associated with good living, discussion, and thought.
The first coffee house in England opened in Oxford in 1650. Two years later, a wealthy London merchant brought home a stock of beans and a Greek servant called Pasqua Rosee to roast and brew them. He quickly found himself flooded with curious visitors, all anxious to be offered coffee. Partly to get rid of the unwanted numbers of people geing to his house, he allowed Rosee, along with his coachman, to sell the coffee to the public. Soon there were over three thousand coffee houses in the City of London. Even the plague of 1665 didn't close them, and many coffee houses continued in business, though new arrivals were often closely questioned about the health of their families before they were allowed in.
Coffee houses in England quickly became established as men's meeting places but they were not the luxurious places known in the Middle East. One contemporary visitor to a London coffee house describes the entrance of one as "so dark you could stumble." He describes how the air inside was thick with tobacco and the smoke of open fires. Coffee was brewed on a large pot bubbling on the fire. On the walls were copies of government notices, including an ordinance against drinking and bad language.
GROWING COFFEE: Two species dominate the world of coffee--arabica and robusta--though in the wild there are around fifty different varieties, with probably others yet to be found. They include some coffees that are naturally decaffeinated and others like liberica, grown in West Africa, that are sold mainly in home markets.
BLENDING AND ROASTING: The first coffee was served in bowls--much like the first tea--and it was always black, at least until the Dutch began adding milk in the 1660s.
Coffee was sold ready-brewed in coffee shops, or by street vendors who carried a barzier and coffee equipment with them. In some ways little has changed; the coffee shop in its various forms, and the expresso cart, are still features of every city in nearly every coffee-drinking country in the world.
Mos of the coffee we drink is a blend. Often the consistent taste of a blend is achieved iwth beans from any number of countries, and species of plant. The big blends aim to taste the same, whatever beans gee to market. Often cheaper, low quality robusta beans, farmed on a larger scale and picked less selectively, are used to bulk out a blend. Other better-quality arabica beans are used to add flavor, body and the desired snap of acidity.
Roasting is a critical stage in coffee production--it defines what the final coffee will taste like. Most coffee is now raosted in bulk in what is basically a rotating drum that heats the beans. The roast time can vary from a few minutes to half an hour. The beans undergo geplex chemical changes during roasting--and the final taste and feel of coffee when it's drunk is due to around two hundred different gepounds which develop during the process.
TO LEARN MORE ABOUT COFFEE, PLEASE VISIT OUR okay STORE. WE CARRY A FULL LINE OF LIFESTYLE SERIES BOX SETS: SPICES, SUSHI, WINE, CHOCOLATE....AND MORE
In the harsh poverty of post war Europe coffee was even used as money. In the Wild West, brewed thick and strong on open fires, it was used by cowboys as sustenance.
Coffee has begee an essential part of life. Mornings need those rich, sensuous aromas. In the workplace we welgee the coffee break--a World War II innovation that recognized the value of coffee stimulation--as a way to "get sharp and keep going."
In fact, coffee has long been a source of inspiration and creativity. First brewed in the dark, smoky interiors of 17th-century coffee shops and cafes, coffee gave birth to ideas like the ballot box, tipping, and the New York Stock Exchange. Even the American Revolution was first brewed in the revolutionary talk of a coffee shop. In France a poor artillery officer, called NapoleonBonaparte, had to leave his three-cornered hat in a Paris cafe to guarantee unpaid coffee bills.
Today, in the US, each person will guzzle an average of seventeen gallons of coffee a year--making Americans some of the keenest coffee drinkers in the world. Whether it's instant or filter, sitting in or on the move, the small green bean--with its little kick of caffeine--is part of everyday life.
THE HISTORY OF COFFEE
Africa gave the world coffee. It grows wild even now in central Africa, and especially in Ethiopia, where people still prepare and drink coffee in a time-honored social ritual.
The first coffee wasn't roasted, ground or probably even drunk. Instead, people just chewed the cherries and green beans of wild coffee trees for the stimulant effect of the caffeine.
Coffee only became a drink sometime in the sixth century. People in parts of Ethiopia began making a wine fermented from the pulp of the coffee tree's fruit or cherrie. Coffee's name originates from this wine, or "qahwah" in Arabic.
At first, coffee spread through Muslim and Christian monasteries, and along the Arab trade routes from Ethiopia and Sudan into Arabia, including what is now Yemen.
THE FIRST COFFEE HOUSES. Coffee drinking spread first to Mecca, and then on to Constantinople (now Istanbul) in Turkey, and Damascus in Syria. It was here that the first coffee houses sprang up. They were places of gefort, with neat couches, where men played chess and tric trac. In the early 1500s in Cairo, Muslim dervishes were drinking coffee as part of their frenetic nighttime worship.
Coffee began to reach Europe around 1600. First the Italians, then the Dutch, Germans and English fell under the spell of the new drink. In the Italian city of Venice coffee, first regarded as medicine, began to replace fruit juices, cider, wines and teas made from various plants. The upper classes, the merchants, and professionals all gathered in the new coffee houses or "cafes," to be joined later in the evenings by women.
In England, the first written reference to coffee drinking is in 1635, at Balliol College, Oxford. Coffee became quickly associated with good living, discussion, and thought.
The first coffee house in England opened in Oxford in 1650. Two years later, a wealthy London merchant brought home a stock of beans and a Greek servant called Pasqua Rosee to roast and brew them. He quickly found himself flooded with curious visitors, all anxious to be offered coffee. Partly to get rid of the unwanted numbers of people geing to his house, he allowed Rosee, along with his coachman, to sell the coffee to the public. Soon there were over three thousand coffee houses in the City of London. Even the plague of 1665 didn't close them, and many coffee houses continued in business, though new arrivals were often closely questioned about the health of their families before they were allowed in.
Coffee houses in England quickly became established as men's meeting places but they were not the luxurious places known in the Middle East. One contemporary visitor to a London coffee house describes the entrance of one as "so dark you could stumble." He describes how the air inside was thick with tobacco and the smoke of open fires. Coffee was brewed on a large pot bubbling on the fire. On the walls were copies of government notices, including an ordinance against drinking and bad language.
GROWING COFFEE: Two species dominate the world of coffee--arabica and robusta--though in the wild there are around fifty different varieties, with probably others yet to be found. They include some coffees that are naturally decaffeinated and others like liberica, grown in West Africa, that are sold mainly in home markets.
BLENDING AND ROASTING: The first coffee was served in bowls--much like the first tea--and it was always black, at least until the Dutch began adding milk in the 1660s.
Coffee was sold ready-brewed in coffee shops, or by street vendors who carried a barzier and coffee equipment with them. In some ways little has changed; the coffee shop in its various forms, and the expresso cart, are still features of every city in nearly every coffee-drinking country in the world.
Mos of the coffee we drink is a blend. Often the consistent taste of a blend is achieved iwth beans from any number of countries, and species of plant. The big blends aim to taste the same, whatever beans gee to market. Often cheaper, low quality robusta beans, farmed on a larger scale and picked less selectively, are used to bulk out a blend. Other better-quality arabica beans are used to add flavor, body and the desired snap of acidity.
Roasting is a critical stage in coffee production--it defines what the final coffee will taste like. Most coffee is now raosted in bulk in what is basically a rotating drum that heats the beans. The roast time can vary from a few minutes to half an hour. The beans undergo geplex chemical changes during roasting--and the final taste and feel of coffee when it's drunk is due to around two hundred different gepounds which develop during the process.
TO LEARN MORE ABOUT COFFEE, PLEASE VISIT OUR okay STORE. WE CARRY A FULL LINE OF LIFESTYLE SERIES BOX SETS: SPICES, SUSHI, WINE, CHOCOLATE....AND MORE
Books for Stock Certificate Collectors
Scripophilists Bookshelf
Literature for Students and Seasoned Collectors
by Don Mesler (scripophile)
The following books cover the subject of scripophily--from its earliest beginnings to recent new issues--from domestic issues to issues as far away as China and Russia.
To appreciate this hobby to its full extent requires someenlightenmentfrom the academic realm. Reading books about scripophily educates us about historic events, economic trends, and technological progress. Reading about these factors helps us appreciate the overall history and to put it all in perspective.
The following books about scripophily are all available, in both new and used condition, from dealers and through Internet sources. Prices shown are approximate and depend on condition and availability.
1. Scripophily, The Art of Finance by Keith Hollender. This outstanding book is for newgeers to scripophily as well as for seasoned collectors. It addresses the ABCs of the subject from introductory material through advanced topics. Written by a non-American, the book has a distinctive international flavor.
Published in 1994 by the Museum of American Financial History, New York, NY.
The book measures 8" x 10 1/2." Fully illustrated in black and white and color. Hardbound, 158 pages. $29.95
2. The Stock
Literature for Students and Seasoned Collectors
by Don Mesler (scripophile)
The following books cover the subject of scripophily--from its earliest beginnings to recent new issues--from domestic issues to issues as far away as China and Russia.
To appreciate this hobby to its full extent requires someenlightenmentfrom the academic realm. Reading books about scripophily educates us about historic events, economic trends, and technological progress. Reading about these factors helps us appreciate the overall history and to put it all in perspective.
The following books about scripophily are all available, in both new and used condition, from dealers and through Internet sources. Prices shown are approximate and depend on condition and availability.
1. Scripophily, The Art of Finance by Keith Hollender. This outstanding book is for newgeers to scripophily as well as for seasoned collectors. It addresses the ABCs of the subject from introductory material through advanced topics. Written by a non-American, the book has a distinctive international flavor.
Published in 1994 by the Museum of American Financial History, New York, NY.
The book measures 8" x 10 1/2." Fully illustrated in black and white and color. Hardbound, 158 pages. $29.95
2. The Stock
Marie-Christine Pavone Jewelry
Marie-Christine Pavone's charming French galalith jewelry has attracted the attention of many collectors! Her whimsical cats and other animals are sought after by many!
Galalith , whose name originates from Greek "Gala" (milk) and "Lithos" (stone), is one of the oldest forms of plastic, first discovered in 1897,when two German researchers discovered that they could solidify milk casein by adding a small amount of formaldehyde. After 1900, galalith was used in the manufacture of buttons, toilet accessories, fountains pens and other objects. Pure white casein has an extremely fine texture which takes color beautifully and can be polished to a beautiful finish.
Galalith , whose name originates from Greek "Gala" (milk) and "Lithos" (stone), is one of the oldest forms of plastic, first discovered in 1897,when two German researchers discovered that they could solidify milk casein by adding a small amount of formaldehyde. After 1900, galalith was used in the manufacture of buttons, toilet accessories, fountains pens and other objects. Pure white casein has an extremely fine texture which takes color beautifully and can be polished to a beautiful finish.
Crocheting for fun and profit
Thank you for taking the time to read this guide. I will attempt to explain some simple techniques about crocheting that will allow you to have a lot of fun, and maybe even make a bit of a profit!
When first starting out to learn the technique of crocheting, it's best to master making the "chain" before going on any further. This is how I've been teaching my children and is how my mom taught me to crochet. If you can't make a good foundation chain, your project will turn out ineffectively! Try to use the same tension throughout the chain making process, as this is how your projects turn out evenly. Once you've mastered the art of "making the chain", you may proceed from there to learn the other stitches.
To make the other stitches, you should follow the stitch guide (usually inside the pattern itself or in the back, depending on the manufacturer of the pattern). It is also helpful, if you are a visual learner, to purchase the DVD or VHS tapes of the art of crocheting. These videos will show you step-by-step the method for various crochet techniques.
What is the MOST important thing about crocheting? To make sure you check your gauge frequently! At the beginning of the pattern, there will be a gauge listing, telling you how many stitches you should have in a particular measurement (usually an inch). If your gauge is wrong, your project will not turn out like it should. This is especially true if you are designing clothing that must fit properly. Be sure that you check your gauge at least every two to three rows to make sure you are on target with the measurements. You should also be crocheting at the same tension throughout your project. Again, failure to do so will result in a skewed project.
Crochet projects can be done in a variety of yarn types. These may include (but are not limited to): baby yarn, fingering yarn, sport yarn, 4 ply yarn, eyelash yarn, chenille yarn, and various other novelty type yarns. Be sure that your yarn selection fits the project that you are trying to acgeplish.
There are a variety of different crochet hook sizes as well. Be sure that you chose a hook size that will enable you to crochet at the proper gauge. This may mean using a different hook size than the pattern calls for based on the tension of your crocheting techniques. Crochet hooks also gee in different makes and models. You may prefer a bamboo hook over an aluminium hook. The preference is entirely up to you!
As far as profit is concerned, when selling your handmade goods, always remember to keep track of your expenses (yarn, embellishments, etc.) as well as your time. Then, you can add a mark-up to your item to ensure that you are making a small profit. Check the "going rates" in your area to see what the type of item you are selling typically brings in. I have found that the profit margin on handmade items can be very small, so I generally will give my items away, either as gifts, or I will donate them to charity.
Most importantly, have fun doing what you are doing! Crocheting can be a very relaxing hobby and can generate some wonderful results! Please let me know if I can assist you any further in your crocheting endeavors!! Happy Hooking!
When first starting out to learn the technique of crocheting, it's best to master making the "chain" before going on any further. This is how I've been teaching my children and is how my mom taught me to crochet. If you can't make a good foundation chain, your project will turn out ineffectively! Try to use the same tension throughout the chain making process, as this is how your projects turn out evenly. Once you've mastered the art of "making the chain", you may proceed from there to learn the other stitches.
To make the other stitches, you should follow the stitch guide (usually inside the pattern itself or in the back, depending on the manufacturer of the pattern). It is also helpful, if you are a visual learner, to purchase the DVD or VHS tapes of the art of crocheting. These videos will show you step-by-step the method for various crochet techniques.
What is the MOST important thing about crocheting? To make sure you check your gauge frequently! At the beginning of the pattern, there will be a gauge listing, telling you how many stitches you should have in a particular measurement (usually an inch). If your gauge is wrong, your project will not turn out like it should. This is especially true if you are designing clothing that must fit properly. Be sure that you check your gauge at least every two to three rows to make sure you are on target with the measurements. You should also be crocheting at the same tension throughout your project. Again, failure to do so will result in a skewed project.
Crochet projects can be done in a variety of yarn types. These may include (but are not limited to): baby yarn, fingering yarn, sport yarn, 4 ply yarn, eyelash yarn, chenille yarn, and various other novelty type yarns. Be sure that your yarn selection fits the project that you are trying to acgeplish.
There are a variety of different crochet hook sizes as well. Be sure that you chose a hook size that will enable you to crochet at the proper gauge. This may mean using a different hook size than the pattern calls for based on the tension of your crocheting techniques. Crochet hooks also gee in different makes and models. You may prefer a bamboo hook over an aluminium hook. The preference is entirely up to you!
As far as profit is concerned, when selling your handmade goods, always remember to keep track of your expenses (yarn, embellishments, etc.) as well as your time. Then, you can add a mark-up to your item to ensure that you are making a small profit. Check the "going rates" in your area to see what the type of item you are selling typically brings in. I have found that the profit margin on handmade items can be very small, so I generally will give my items away, either as gifts, or I will donate them to charity.
Most importantly, have fun doing what you are doing! Crocheting can be a very relaxing hobby and can generate some wonderful results! Please let me know if I can assist you any further in your crocheting endeavors!! Happy Hooking!
The Easy Guide To Buying at Auctions
Auctions and okay. The words go together like bread and toast.
Dont be overwhelmed by the idea of going to an auction to look for items to sell. Now, more than ever before, its easy as pie. You dont have to be an expert. You just need a few tips. Follow the easy suggestions below and soon youll be buying and selling like a pro!
Do you have to be an expert to get a good deal?
No! Absolutely not. No one, not even the experts,know everything. Now with the help of okay and the internet there are wonderful research tools at your disposal where you can find out how popular and sellable the items you'll be bidding on will be.
How do I find a good auction?
You can, of course, check your local newspapers. Another fantastic auction resource is to check the internet. You'll find that most local auction houses not only list what they're selling they also have pictures of what they're selling!
When you know what is available and what kind of condition it's in you're ready to start your next step, research.
How Do I know what to Buy and what to spend?
Thats easier than you think too. You know what the auction is selling. All you have to do is do a little research beforehand. Remember, knowledge is power and knowledge makes you money. okay has a fantastic and free research tool for you to use.
Lets say youre going to auction that has a lot of pink depression glass. Now, you know nothing about pink depression glass other than its very pretty and you have a feeling it might sell well on okay. But you need to know what the prices are before you go to the auction and buy it.
Go to okayand look in the upper right hand corner for theadvanced search link. When you click on that link you will find that you can check a box that says search by gepleted listings only. Type in the article youre looking for, i.e. pink depression plate, and the gepleted listings with pricesfor the last 30 days appear.
You can further refine your search results if you wish and add in options like sort by highest price first. This gives you invaluable insight as to how well the product youre thinking of buying will sell and how much you can expect to get for it when you list it on okay.
At the Auction
Arrive early. I suggest at least an hour beforehand. This gives you plenty of time to look over the items and see what you want to bid on and decide how high youll go on each item.
Pick a seat and register at the desk. They will ask for photo ID if youve never been there before and give you a biddingnumber. Most auctions will let you pay with cash, checks and credit cards. Check with your auction beforehand just to be sure.
Look over anything youre interested in carefully. Check for any damage and imperfections. Take notes on anything youd like to buy and decide beforehand what youre willing to pay. DO NOTget caught up in the excitement of the moment and overbid. A basic rule of thumb for buying I use is to pay half of what Im reasonably sure I can sell it for., i.e. if I think a plate will sell for $30, I will pay up to $15 for it.
Relax. Sit down.Look overyour list of possibilities and get ready. Each auctioneer has their own rhythm and youll soon get used to how the auctioneer operates and what kind of bid increments you should expect.
Listing your Finds
Take plenty of pictures, be descriptiveand always be honest. If there are any imperfections in your item let your bidders know.
Keep your starting bid low. Youll find more people will probably bid on your treasures if you offer a low starting bid. This strategy works because once a bid is placed the bidder mentally owns the item and wants to keep bidding just like you at the auction!
Additional Research Resources
As you grow more experienced and decide you want to take your business to the next level, check out the okay marketplace. For a low monthly fee you'll find you can get a longer historical price analysis and additional valuable tipsabout the items you're interested in.
okay also offers additional free research resources that you should check regularly. Start at okay's Seller Central. There you'll find linkswhere you can researchwhat the hot sellers were on okay in the previous month and what the most searched for items are on okay.
okay is a dynamic marketplace with ebbs and flows. A good seller keeps up with the trends. You'll find if you add these additional research tools to your repertoire, you'll always be ready tosnatch up a goodbuy when you see one.
Additional Buying Resources
Be sure to check outyourChurch Rummage Sales and local yard sales. The deals can be phenomenal there. Although you can't do the preliminary research like you can at auction, you can get a big edge on your gepetition by taking the very simple step of arriving early. At a rummage sale, I always make sure to arrive at least an hour beforehand. In the cases of these particular sales, the early bird truly does get the worm.
Ready, Set, Go ...
So, it's much easier than you think to find things to sell on okay for a profit. Follow these tips and in no time at all you'll be a successful okay entrepreneur. You'll be able to make money while you shop. Can you imagine a better life? okay makes it easy and you make it fun!
Dont be overwhelmed by the idea of going to an auction to look for items to sell. Now, more than ever before, its easy as pie. You dont have to be an expert. You just need a few tips. Follow the easy suggestions below and soon youll be buying and selling like a pro!
Do you have to be an expert to get a good deal?
No! Absolutely not. No one, not even the experts,know everything. Now with the help of okay and the internet there are wonderful research tools at your disposal where you can find out how popular and sellable the items you'll be bidding on will be.
How do I find a good auction?
You can, of course, check your local newspapers. Another fantastic auction resource is to check the internet. You'll find that most local auction houses not only list what they're selling they also have pictures of what they're selling!
When you know what is available and what kind of condition it's in you're ready to start your next step, research.
How Do I know what to Buy and what to spend?
Thats easier than you think too. You know what the auction is selling. All you have to do is do a little research beforehand. Remember, knowledge is power and knowledge makes you money. okay has a fantastic and free research tool for you to use.
Lets say youre going to auction that has a lot of pink depression glass. Now, you know nothing about pink depression glass other than its very pretty and you have a feeling it might sell well on okay. But you need to know what the prices are before you go to the auction and buy it.
Go to okayand look in the upper right hand corner for theadvanced search link. When you click on that link you will find that you can check a box that says search by gepleted listings only. Type in the article youre looking for, i.e. pink depression plate, and the gepleted listings with pricesfor the last 30 days appear.
You can further refine your search results if you wish and add in options like sort by highest price first. This gives you invaluable insight as to how well the product youre thinking of buying will sell and how much you can expect to get for it when you list it on okay.
At the Auction
Arrive early. I suggest at least an hour beforehand. This gives you plenty of time to look over the items and see what you want to bid on and decide how high youll go on each item.
Pick a seat and register at the desk. They will ask for photo ID if youve never been there before and give you a biddingnumber. Most auctions will let you pay with cash, checks and credit cards. Check with your auction beforehand just to be sure.
Look over anything youre interested in carefully. Check for any damage and imperfections. Take notes on anything youd like to buy and decide beforehand what youre willing to pay. DO NOTget caught up in the excitement of the moment and overbid. A basic rule of thumb for buying I use is to pay half of what Im reasonably sure I can sell it for., i.e. if I think a plate will sell for $30, I will pay up to $15 for it.
Relax. Sit down.Look overyour list of possibilities and get ready. Each auctioneer has their own rhythm and youll soon get used to how the auctioneer operates and what kind of bid increments you should expect.
Listing your Finds
Take plenty of pictures, be descriptiveand always be honest. If there are any imperfections in your item let your bidders know.
Keep your starting bid low. Youll find more people will probably bid on your treasures if you offer a low starting bid. This strategy works because once a bid is placed the bidder mentally owns the item and wants to keep bidding just like you at the auction!
Additional Research Resources
As you grow more experienced and decide you want to take your business to the next level, check out the okay marketplace. For a low monthly fee you'll find you can get a longer historical price analysis and additional valuable tipsabout the items you're interested in.
okay also offers additional free research resources that you should check regularly. Start at okay's Seller Central. There you'll find linkswhere you can researchwhat the hot sellers were on okay in the previous month and what the most searched for items are on okay.
okay is a dynamic marketplace with ebbs and flows. A good seller keeps up with the trends. You'll find if you add these additional research tools to your repertoire, you'll always be ready tosnatch up a goodbuy when you see one.
Additional Buying Resources
Be sure to check outyourChurch Rummage Sales and local yard sales. The deals can be phenomenal there. Although you can't do the preliminary research like you can at auction, you can get a big edge on your gepetition by taking the very simple step of arriving early. At a rummage sale, I always make sure to arrive at least an hour beforehand. In the cases of these particular sales, the early bird truly does get the worm.
Ready, Set, Go ...
So, it's much easier than you think to find things to sell on okay for a profit. Follow these tips and in no time at all you'll be a successful okay entrepreneur. You'll be able to make money while you shop. Can you imagine a better life? okay makes it easy and you make it fun!
Looking for an Unusual type of fabric that waterproof
Oh me Oh my..Why can't I find that Oilcloth of days past. I can tell you why, really I can. There is a new name for this fabric and it is called Laminated Fabric. It is avery hot item out west! Leave it to those Californians to be in the know about everything. So how is Laminated Fabric like the old timey oilcloth..they share only one similarity really..They can wipe clean with a damp cloth. Those oilclothsdidn't gee in a very large selection of colors and you kinda settled if you catch my drift.
NO MORE SETTLING..as they say on the okay gemercials Get IT Here.
Nowadays you can get beautiful designer fabric that is not a synthetic but 100% cotton, it is laminated with a thin coat of vinyl. Some styles and patterns are laminated on the front only , still others are coated only on the back...then there are some fabrics that are coated on both front and back..talk about unique and weatherproof. So don't settle for thesynthetic old timey vinyl coated fabric with limited designs gee to where it is.
So now that I know where IT is...you ask, what do I do with IT once I have IT???
Well besides the obvious tablecloths of old..now people with kids and pets are looking for colorful decorative vinyl to cover barstools and kitchen chairs..I know a few restaurants that could sure use help in this department. Our customers have made boat cushions, outside patio furniture cushions, tote bags diaper bags, raincoats for everyone frompets to adults, placemats, golf shoe bags, Ballet bags for your precious darlings tap shoes etc,rainbonnets to sell at the church fair, ponchos, pergolas for the back yard, I covered an old counter top for my store with a beautiful rich brown paisley..it's the talk of the town. Check us out if you are looking for unusual Laminated Fabric!
We can be found on okay atxyztreasuregepany.
NO MORE SETTLING..as they say on the okay gemercials Get IT Here.
Nowadays you can get beautiful designer fabric that is not a synthetic but 100% cotton, it is laminated with a thin coat of vinyl. Some styles and patterns are laminated on the front only , still others are coated only on the back...then there are some fabrics that are coated on both front and back..talk about unique and weatherproof. So don't settle for thesynthetic old timey vinyl coated fabric with limited designs gee to where it is.
So now that I know where IT is...you ask, what do I do with IT once I have IT???
Well besides the obvious tablecloths of old..now people with kids and pets are looking for colorful decorative vinyl to cover barstools and kitchen chairs..I know a few restaurants that could sure use help in this department. Our customers have made boat cushions, outside patio furniture cushions, tote bags diaper bags, raincoats for everyone frompets to adults, placemats, golf shoe bags, Ballet bags for your precious darlings tap shoes etc,rainbonnets to sell at the church fair, ponchos, pergolas for the back yard, I covered an old counter top for my store with a beautiful rich brown paisley..it's the talk of the town. Check us out if you are looking for unusual Laminated Fabric!
We can be found on okay atxyztreasuregepany.
Pt 5 More Old Country Roses Factory Seconds Backstamps
Part5 of a five part series
okay's limit is 10 pics per guide, so this guide should be read after Part 1. How to buy Old Country Roses - Royal Albert
A factory second is exactly that...
It is an item that was rejected by the factory's quality control staff as unsuitable for first quality specification and sale.
It could have been a glazing flaw, mis-alignment of one of the graphic transfers, a colour variation, a firing or gilding flaw, variation in size, placement of handle...the list could go on. Please note that gilders often put a test mark on the back/bottom....it does not indicate a flaw, it was simply used to test the gilding or sometimes to identify the production team.
Just remember, no matter what anyone claims, the second was rejected for a specific reason, if the seller can't tell you what it is, it just means that they can't find it....not that it's not there....
In addition to Part 1, other guides to this series are:
Part 2/5 1973-1993 More Old Country Roses English Backstamps
Part 3/5 1993-2002 More Old Country Roses English Backstamps
Part 4/5 More Old Country RosesAsian Backstamps
okay's limit is 10 pics per guide, so this guide should be read after Part 1. How to buy Old Country Roses - Royal Albert
A factory second is exactly that...
It is an item that was rejected by the factory's quality control staff as unsuitable for first quality specification and sale.
It could have been a glazing flaw, mis-alignment of one of the graphic transfers, a colour variation, a firing or gilding flaw, variation in size, placement of handle...the list could go on. Please note that gilders often put a test mark on the back/bottom....it does not indicate a flaw, it was simply used to test the gilding or sometimes to identify the production team.
Just remember, no matter what anyone claims, the second was rejected for a specific reason, if the seller can't tell you what it is, it just means that they can't find it....not that it's not there....
In addition to Part 1, other guides to this series are:
Part 2/5 1973-1993 More Old Country Roses English Backstamps
Part 3/5 1993-2002 More Old Country Roses English Backstamps
Part 4/5 More Old Country RosesAsian Backstamps
Essentials for Scrapbooking - What you really need!
I've been scrapbooking for years and have tried every fade that has gee and gone in the industry. I was like an addict going to the craft store or okay (of course) to get my fix on a daily basis. What I didn't get was any scrapbooking done. When it came time to sit down and actually scrapbook my pictures I would have too many choices and couldn't get started. So what did I do? I sold most of my scrapbook "stuff" on okay (and I am still slowly adding when I find things I won't be using). What did I keep?The essentials which is what I'm going to share with you.
Pictures - These are the most important part of scrapbooking. They should be filed in acid-free storage boxes that you can get at any local craft store. If you have them organized in catagories this makes your scrapbooking easier but at least get them into the acid free boxes!
An album - I choose to keep only 6x6 because you can focus on 1 picture and only one or two small embellishments. You do have plenty of other size choices though and that is a personal choice.
Cardstock - I like Stampin' Up! paper so that is mostly what I have but any cardstock will do.
A paper cutter - Okay I actually kept two of these but one will do for you.
A pair of scissors - Again, I have a pair from Stampin' Up! but any brand will do. Make sure they are high quality as the money you spend on them will pay off in the long run.
Adhesive - You have a ton of choices in this catagory. I prefer photo tabs and tend to use those most. You could also use adhesive dots, glue sticks, double-sided tape, adhesive runners........and the list goes on. The important thing to remember is that anything that touches your pictures should be acid free.
Embossing gun and embossing powders - Though I do still own them I have discovered that I use my heat gun for lots of other crafts more than in scrapbooking. I actually only have four colors of embossing powders left: clear, black, silver, and white.
Light table - I have a miniature one that I purchased at Wal-mart for $10. I use this mostly for my paper piecings but I used to use it with my embossing stencils.
Stickers- Though I don't use many of these anymore I find the alphabet stickers great for titles and journaling.
Eyelets and setters - I had about 50 different colors and styles of eyelets and found that I wasn't using them. I did keep 4 colors and a setter just in case.
Fibers - These I use a ton of! You can include yarn, fabric, ribbon, dried flowers, really any type of 3-D fiber. I love adding texture and color and this is a cheap and plentiful choice to do it.
Now that is what I have paired my scrapbook obsession down to. There are lots of other materials you could use but I have found that my scrapbooks get done faster and save me a lot of money this way. I print out or paper peice most of myembellishments though from time to time I do purchase a particular embellishment for a particular page. I have learned to live with two scrapbook mottos and I repeat them to myself everytime I see a new trend or items I want to purchase.
Buy what you need not what is on sale.
Too many embellishments take away from the picture.
I hope that this section helped you scale down your collection and make you focus more on your pictures. After All, scrapbooking is about preserving the memories, not spending a lot of money!
Pictures - These are the most important part of scrapbooking. They should be filed in acid-free storage boxes that you can get at any local craft store. If you have them organized in catagories this makes your scrapbooking easier but at least get them into the acid free boxes!
An album - I choose to keep only 6x6 because you can focus on 1 picture and only one or two small embellishments. You do have plenty of other size choices though and that is a personal choice.
Cardstock - I like Stampin' Up! paper so that is mostly what I have but any cardstock will do.
A paper cutter - Okay I actually kept two of these but one will do for you.
A pair of scissors - Again, I have a pair from Stampin' Up! but any brand will do. Make sure they are high quality as the money you spend on them will pay off in the long run.
Adhesive - You have a ton of choices in this catagory. I prefer photo tabs and tend to use those most. You could also use adhesive dots, glue sticks, double-sided tape, adhesive runners........and the list goes on. The important thing to remember is that anything that touches your pictures should be acid free.
Embossing gun and embossing powders - Though I do still own them I have discovered that I use my heat gun for lots of other crafts more than in scrapbooking. I actually only have four colors of embossing powders left: clear, black, silver, and white.
Light table - I have a miniature one that I purchased at Wal-mart for $10. I use this mostly for my paper piecings but I used to use it with my embossing stencils.
Stickers- Though I don't use many of these anymore I find the alphabet stickers great for titles and journaling.
Eyelets and setters - I had about 50 different colors and styles of eyelets and found that I wasn't using them. I did keep 4 colors and a setter just in case.
Fibers - These I use a ton of! You can include yarn, fabric, ribbon, dried flowers, really any type of 3-D fiber. I love adding texture and color and this is a cheap and plentiful choice to do it.
Now that is what I have paired my scrapbook obsession down to. There are lots of other materials you could use but I have found that my scrapbooks get done faster and save me a lot of money this way. I print out or paper peice most of myembellishments though from time to time I do purchase a particular embellishment for a particular page. I have learned to live with two scrapbook mottos and I repeat them to myself everytime I see a new trend or items I want to purchase.
Buy what you need not what is on sale.
Too many embellishments take away from the picture.
I hope that this section helped you scale down your collection and make you focus more on your pictures. After All, scrapbooking is about preserving the memories, not spending a lot of money!
A guide to buying Ice Skates
Guide to buying Ice skatesWhen looking for a pair of Ice skates you want to make sure you are getting the right fit. Most all skates run different then your street shoes size. Also make sure that you are getting the correct width for you foot this is very important too. Buying the wrong size skates can cause blisters and can also cause the boot to break in incorrectly. Always ask a lot of questions or go to the nearest skate shop to get help with a good fit. Support is very important when it gees to skates and what level of skater you are also. Do buy trouble to say money. Your foot should feel snug in the skate and your foot should lay flat. Toes should be able to move just a little not alot. Remember the best skates are made of leather uppers and will stretch after you have been skating in them. Just a few tips to make sure you are getting good quality and a good fit.If you need help with sizing and the purchase a new pair of skate email m but go to www.stores.okay.ge/ice-skate-haven I do lots of boot fitting to walk in Customers and also to online shoppers. Or call 512-246-3961
USB Flash Drive-Not Shown As A Drive Though plug-n-play
[USB Flash Drive-Not Shown As A Drive Though plug-n-play]
Current USB Flash Drives are truly 'plug and play' on Windows XP and Mac OS X - no additional software is required - the device automatically begees visible as a new drive (if not showing as a drive see the instructions below for help to fix this problem) and users can unplug at any time (even though OS X may give an error message unless EJECT is selected first). However users on Windows 2000, Mac OS 9 or earlier systems should only unplug after a request to the system. Earlier systems (e.g. Win 98) usually also require installation of driver software before the USB flash drive can be used on that geputer.
(if not showing as a drive see the instructions below for help to fix this problem)
the USB Drive will normally appear automatically as a new drive - however on Windows geputers with many existing drive or network mappings it may not show automatically - to fix this right click on My geputer, choose Manage, wait, choose Disk Management - the removable drive will typically be visible below any hard drives (e.g. C) and CD/DVD drives (e.g. D), click on the removable drive, choose Change Drive Letter or Paths..., select Change, choose a new unused drive letter (e.g. X) and confirm - your files will then appear automatically. If still not visible other possible reasons could include Service Pack 2 support for write protection of external drives (may require changes to StorageDevicePolicies), the drive may be hidden (check if NoDrives value exists in registry or download software such as TweakUI to make hidden drives visible again) or a user profile problem (e.g. corrupt ntuser.dat file - do not rebuild until after you have backed up data from individual folders such as Local Settings, Favorites, My Documents, etc).
Current USB Flash Drives are truly 'plug and play' on Windows XP and Mac OS X - no additional software is required - the device automatically begees visible as a new drive (if not showing as a drive see the instructions below for help to fix this problem) and users can unplug at any time (even though OS X may give an error message unless EJECT is selected first). However users on Windows 2000, Mac OS 9 or earlier systems should only unplug after a request to the system. Earlier systems (e.g. Win 98) usually also require installation of driver software before the USB flash drive can be used on that geputer.
(if not showing as a drive see the instructions below for help to fix this problem)
the USB Drive will normally appear automatically as a new drive - however on Windows geputers with many existing drive or network mappings it may not show automatically - to fix this right click on My geputer, choose Manage, wait, choose Disk Management - the removable drive will typically be visible below any hard drives (e.g. C) and CD/DVD drives (e.g. D), click on the removable drive, choose Change Drive Letter or Paths..., select Change, choose a new unused drive letter (e.g. X) and confirm - your files will then appear automatically. If still not visible other possible reasons could include Service Pack 2 support for write protection of external drives (may require changes to StorageDevicePolicies), the drive may be hidden (check if NoDrives value exists in registry or download software such as TweakUI to make hidden drives visible again) or a user profile problem (e.g. corrupt ntuser.dat file - do not rebuild until after you have backed up data from individual folders such as Local Settings, Favorites, My Documents, etc).
Choosing The Right Grade of Maple Syrup For You
Choosing the Right Grade of Maple Syrup for Your Tastebuds
Unless you've begee a maple connoisseur, you probably aren't sure what a grade of maple syrup is, let alone which you prefer. This guide will explain what a "grade" of maple syrup is, and help you to find which grade is best for your needs.
What is a "Grade" of Maple Syrup? What Difference Does it Make?
Maple syrup in Vermont gees in the following grades, listed from lightest in color to darkest:
Grade A Light Amber ("Fancy")
Grade A Medium Amber
Grade A Dark Amber
Grade B
Grade C (cannot legally be sold in containers smaller than 5 gallons in Vermont)
The grades are based mostly on the color of the syrup, although theflavor will most often correlate very closely with the color-- the lighter the color the lighter the flavor, andthe darker the color the stronger the flavor.
Maple syrup is graded by the producer who gepares the color of the syrup to those in a grading kit. The grading kit is a set of predetermined colors that can vary from region to region, however most grades will be similar throughout the northeastern US. While a syrup grade is most often determined simply by color, there can be other factors in grading syrup as well. It is possible to have a light colored syrup that is labeled a lower grade due to the flavor, however this is quite ungemon in retail settings. Saint Pierre Farmshas a very advanced and experienced sugarmaker who can custom cut syrup grades (i.e. create a light colored syrup with a dark syrup flavor, or a dark colored syrup with a light syrup flavor). Most people who do this blend syrup-- for example, taking a dark colored syrup and mixing it with a light colored syrup to get a medium color, but Saint Pierre Farmsdoes not ever blend their syrup. Most syrup available in a grocery store from the large packers will be blended syrup, and it does not taste the same as a pure grade maple syrup.
What Grade of Syrup Do I Want?
The different grades of maple syrup most often have different uses, depending on your tastebuds. Many people will use the darker grades (Grade B and Grade C) for cooking, however some people do like these as table syrups as well. Grade A Light Amber is most often used in desserts, or as a topping for ice cream, however some people prefer the light flavor for their table syrup. The most popular table syrup grades are Grade A Medium Amber and Grade A Dark Amber. They balance their color with a medium strength flavor that is pleasing to most palates.
If you are the type that likes strong, bold flavors on your table, try Grade A Dark Amber or Grade B syrup first. You can always get a lighter grade next time if it is too strong for you.
If ou want to use your syrup for both cooking and table syrup, Grade A Dark Amber is a good choice.
If you like gentler, less intense flavor on your table, try Grade A Medium Amber or Grade A Light Amber (also known as "Fancy"). This will give you the delicate flavor you are looking for.
If you are still unsure of what grade to try, try Grade A Dark Amber. The most popular grade of syrup, this grade gives you the best of both worlds-- not so strong that it hides the flavor of the food you are serving it with, but strong enough to give you that definite maple flavor that maple products are known for.
If you have certain needs or would like additional assistance in determining the best grade for your purpose (i.e. for use in a specific type of receipe or your personal preferences), feel free to contact Saint Pierre Farmsthrough their okay contact information.
Visit Saint Pierre Farms' okay Storefor a huge selection of maple products, including maple syrup, maple candy, maple sugar, maple dessert sauces, maple soap, and more!
Unless you've begee a maple connoisseur, you probably aren't sure what a grade of maple syrup is, let alone which you prefer. This guide will explain what a "grade" of maple syrup is, and help you to find which grade is best for your needs.
What is a "Grade" of Maple Syrup? What Difference Does it Make?
Maple syrup in Vermont gees in the following grades, listed from lightest in color to darkest:
Grade A Light Amber ("Fancy")
Grade A Medium Amber
Grade A Dark Amber
Grade B
Grade C (cannot legally be sold in containers smaller than 5 gallons in Vermont)
The grades are based mostly on the color of the syrup, although theflavor will most often correlate very closely with the color-- the lighter the color the lighter the flavor, andthe darker the color the stronger the flavor.
Maple syrup is graded by the producer who gepares the color of the syrup to those in a grading kit. The grading kit is a set of predetermined colors that can vary from region to region, however most grades will be similar throughout the northeastern US. While a syrup grade is most often determined simply by color, there can be other factors in grading syrup as well. It is possible to have a light colored syrup that is labeled a lower grade due to the flavor, however this is quite ungemon in retail settings. Saint Pierre Farmshas a very advanced and experienced sugarmaker who can custom cut syrup grades (i.e. create a light colored syrup with a dark syrup flavor, or a dark colored syrup with a light syrup flavor). Most people who do this blend syrup-- for example, taking a dark colored syrup and mixing it with a light colored syrup to get a medium color, but Saint Pierre Farmsdoes not ever blend their syrup. Most syrup available in a grocery store from the large packers will be blended syrup, and it does not taste the same as a pure grade maple syrup.
What Grade of Syrup Do I Want?
The different grades of maple syrup most often have different uses, depending on your tastebuds. Many people will use the darker grades (Grade B and Grade C) for cooking, however some people do like these as table syrups as well. Grade A Light Amber is most often used in desserts, or as a topping for ice cream, however some people prefer the light flavor for their table syrup. The most popular table syrup grades are Grade A Medium Amber and Grade A Dark Amber. They balance their color with a medium strength flavor that is pleasing to most palates.
If you are the type that likes strong, bold flavors on your table, try Grade A Dark Amber or Grade B syrup first. You can always get a lighter grade next time if it is too strong for you.
If ou want to use your syrup for both cooking and table syrup, Grade A Dark Amber is a good choice.
If you like gentler, less intense flavor on your table, try Grade A Medium Amber or Grade A Light Amber (also known as "Fancy"). This will give you the delicate flavor you are looking for.
If you are still unsure of what grade to try, try Grade A Dark Amber. The most popular grade of syrup, this grade gives you the best of both worlds-- not so strong that it hides the flavor of the food you are serving it with, but strong enough to give you that definite maple flavor that maple products are known for.
If you have certain needs or would like additional assistance in determining the best grade for your purpose (i.e. for use in a specific type of receipe or your personal preferences), feel free to contact Saint Pierre Farmsthrough their okay contact information.
Visit Saint Pierre Farms' okay Storefor a huge selection of maple products, including maple syrup, maple candy, maple sugar, maple dessert sauces, maple soap, and more!
Instantly improve your drawing skills
Although many people think that drawing
is a talent, there are actually many helpful hints and tricks
to instantly improve anyone's drawings. In this guide I explain
some simple techniques that can help anyone create more interesting
and visually appealing drawings.
Choosing Materials
The first and most important decision when choosing materials is Pencils or Charcoal.
Obviously most people would have pencils more readily available, but
charcoal can be more suitable in some circumstances. For example Pencil
can be more useful for precise and detailed drawings, while charcoal
would work better to cover large even value shapes with smooth
blending. When choosing Pencil you may consider buying a kit of
drawing pencils as seen above to have a full range (2H-
hardest\lightest to 9B- softest\darkest) of values. However the
average person would only need between 2B and 6B. With charcoal
the main differences are Vine and gepressed. Vine charcoal is
very soft and versatile with a large range of values. gepressed
however is very hard and will only give you an extremely dark value
which can be nearly impossible to erase so use with
caution.
Another important tool is the Eraser. I highly regemend a kneadable eraser. They can be molded
into any shape to erase in a small or large space, and can also be used
as a drawing tool itself. An optional tool that I would regemend is a Blending Stump.
This tool (which is the white stick shown in the picture above) can
make it much easier to evenly blend values together even with pencil(I
will show an example of this later).
Using Contour Lines
One of the easiest ways to make a drawing more interesting is the
addition of contour lines which is the thickening and thinning of
lines in particular areas.
before
after
The idea is to thicken the line as it curves inward (concave) and at
the bottoms to get the "feel" of gravity. Then leave the tops and where
it curves outward (convex) thin. Easy enough right? =)
Using Value to Imply Lines
In the above charcoal drawings you can see that there are no defined
lines but instead you can use lights against darks to create the
illusion of line. This is usually the case in real life therefore
this is an important element when trying to render a realistic
geposition such as a still life.
Starting a Drawing
First off you much choose a subject, which is often easier said than
done. For this demonstration I choose a picture of some sort of
elephant ear plant (at least that's what I'm calling it) as seen below.
I often start with what is called a Gesture. A gesture is a
fluent movement of a VERY LIGHT continuous line working from the Inside-Out.
It is NOT an outline. It is easiest to think of it like a wire
sculpture of the subject. Gestures are usually very quick (30 sec
or less). This is just give us a starting point, don't expect to
capture the subject exact at all.
This is mine (I appologize that it is a little tough to see since it is so light.)
Next I use a technique called Giageetti named after it's creator
Alberto Giageetti. In this technique we use horizontal and
vertical "measuring lines" to find intersections in a drawing to make
sure your proportions and relationships are correct. This can be
a very difficult technique to master but keeping it in mind will keep
you from making major mistakes in a geposition, and when used
correctly can guarantee a believable drawing. Here are some
examples:
-----------
is a talent, there are actually many helpful hints and tricks
to instantly improve anyone's drawings. In this guide I explain
some simple techniques that can help anyone create more interesting
and visually appealing drawings.
Choosing Materials
The first and most important decision when choosing materials is Pencils or Charcoal.
Obviously most people would have pencils more readily available, but
charcoal can be more suitable in some circumstances. For example Pencil
can be more useful for precise and detailed drawings, while charcoal
would work better to cover large even value shapes with smooth
blending. When choosing Pencil you may consider buying a kit of
drawing pencils as seen above to have a full range (2H-
hardest\lightest to 9B- softest\darkest) of values. However the
average person would only need between 2B and 6B. With charcoal
the main differences are Vine and gepressed. Vine charcoal is
very soft and versatile with a large range of values. gepressed
however is very hard and will only give you an extremely dark value
which can be nearly impossible to erase so use with
caution.
Another important tool is the Eraser. I highly regemend a kneadable eraser. They can be molded
into any shape to erase in a small or large space, and can also be used
as a drawing tool itself. An optional tool that I would regemend is a Blending Stump.
This tool (which is the white stick shown in the picture above) can
make it much easier to evenly blend values together even with pencil(I
will show an example of this later).
Using Contour Lines
One of the easiest ways to make a drawing more interesting is the
addition of contour lines which is the thickening and thinning of
lines in particular areas.
before
after
The idea is to thicken the line as it curves inward (concave) and at
the bottoms to get the "feel" of gravity. Then leave the tops and where
it curves outward (convex) thin. Easy enough right? =)
Using Value to Imply Lines
In the above charcoal drawings you can see that there are no defined
lines but instead you can use lights against darks to create the
illusion of line. This is usually the case in real life therefore
this is an important element when trying to render a realistic
geposition such as a still life.
Starting a Drawing
First off you much choose a subject, which is often easier said than
done. For this demonstration I choose a picture of some sort of
elephant ear plant (at least that's what I'm calling it) as seen below.
I often start with what is called a Gesture. A gesture is a
fluent movement of a VERY LIGHT continuous line working from the Inside-Out.
It is NOT an outline. It is easiest to think of it like a wire
sculpture of the subject. Gestures are usually very quick (30 sec
or less). This is just give us a starting point, don't expect to
capture the subject exact at all.
This is mine (I appologize that it is a little tough to see since it is so light.)
Next I use a technique called Giageetti named after it's creator
Alberto Giageetti. In this technique we use horizontal and
vertical "measuring lines" to find intersections in a drawing to make
sure your proportions and relationships are correct. This can be
a very difficult technique to master but keeping it in mind will keep
you from making major mistakes in a geposition, and when used
correctly can guarantee a believable drawing. Here are some
examples:
-----------
Jewelry Appraisal Quick Reference Guide
Appraisals! Appraisals! Appraisals!Just what is an appraisal? It's a piece of paper expounding on value (whether that value be determined by Estimated Retail Value or Insurance Replacement Value). It's also, no doubt, a sales tool,which can or should be usedby a prospective buyer to gee to some kind of determinaton of value on a piece of jewelry.
When you buy a piece of jewelry from a jewelry store, they may offer you an appraisal. If the appraisal was performed by a third party appraisal firm then you may have something of value in your hands. If the appraisal was performed by an "on-site" gemologist employed at the jewelry store,the question of "who's working on who's behalf" gees into question.
Buy a piece of jewelry online and go into any jewelry store and just because you did not buy the item in that specific store, you'll more than likely be told you paid too much.
The Acid Test...Take your favorite piece of jewelry (a piece you have owned forever) and bring it to that local jewelry store and ask how much it's worth and they'll give you an estimate. Better yet, get it appraised by their "on-site" gemologist. Then ask them if they'll buy the piece from you for the quoted estimate. The answer will bea resounding NO! (unless they can grab it from you for pennies on the dollar).
Take the piece to a pawn shop and they'll offer you some variation of the spot price of gold (if the piece is set in gold) and if the piece has a diamond -what until you hear just how low they can go.
Jewelry is just like any other consumer product. Buy a car, drive it off the showroom floor, bring it back to the dealer a week later to sell it back and see what they offer.
However, jewelry and gems do have one outstanding feature. Insurance gepanies offer their customers the ability to increase their loss policies (for jewelry) each and every year upwards by 5%!
The biggest buyer of jewelry a few years back was not a national jewelry store chain or any gebination thereof-it was a Major Insurance Carrier!
This may answer the question of what type of an appraisal consumer's should seek! Insurance Replacement Value appraisals are based upon "true" values upon which an insurance carrier will either replace the lost item (at the replacement cost stated within the policy) or their right to replace the item at their own cost (of course discounted to them, which they receive due to the enormous quantity of replacement pieces they purchase each and every yeardue to loss).
Estimated Retail Value appraisals can be helpful determining "retail value" but if such an appraisal is presented to your insurance carrier, your premiums will be high and if the insurance carrier has the right to replace the item at their cost(and not hand you over a check for value) then you've paid through the nose for extra coverage you did not require.
If the item is so unique that you feel no insurance carrier in the world could replace the item - seek out the most qualified gemologist you can find to determine value.
Quality Assurance Report...A QAR can be useful in just determining if a piece is authentic. In other words, you just purchased a 3 carat diamond which is set in Platinum. Is it a 3 carat diamond? Is it set in Platinum? The least expensive way to find out is to bring your piece to an independent appraiser and ask for a QAR.The Last Word...Remember, every appraisal in the world is based upon an opinion. Nothing is set in stone except the ring on your finger. Every appraisal in world hasdisclosures protecting the appraisal gepany fromlegal action.The most widely known gemological lab has been under fire by the FTC however, consumers flock to them forappraisals based upon brand name recognition.
Remember, always buy a piece of jewelry or gem based upon what that piece brings to you!
Jewelry
Other guides relating to jewelry and gemstone buyingwhich you may find helpful are as follows:
Gold Prices and Gold Jewelry
When you buy a piece of jewelry from a jewelry store, they may offer you an appraisal. If the appraisal was performed by a third party appraisal firm then you may have something of value in your hands. If the appraisal was performed by an "on-site" gemologist employed at the jewelry store,the question of "who's working on who's behalf" gees into question.
Buy a piece of jewelry online and go into any jewelry store and just because you did not buy the item in that specific store, you'll more than likely be told you paid too much.
The Acid Test...Take your favorite piece of jewelry (a piece you have owned forever) and bring it to that local jewelry store and ask how much it's worth and they'll give you an estimate. Better yet, get it appraised by their "on-site" gemologist. Then ask them if they'll buy the piece from you for the quoted estimate. The answer will bea resounding NO! (unless they can grab it from you for pennies on the dollar).
Take the piece to a pawn shop and they'll offer you some variation of the spot price of gold (if the piece is set in gold) and if the piece has a diamond -what until you hear just how low they can go.
Jewelry is just like any other consumer product. Buy a car, drive it off the showroom floor, bring it back to the dealer a week later to sell it back and see what they offer.
However, jewelry and gems do have one outstanding feature. Insurance gepanies offer their customers the ability to increase their loss policies (for jewelry) each and every year upwards by 5%!
The biggest buyer of jewelry a few years back was not a national jewelry store chain or any gebination thereof-it was a Major Insurance Carrier!
This may answer the question of what type of an appraisal consumer's should seek! Insurance Replacement Value appraisals are based upon "true" values upon which an insurance carrier will either replace the lost item (at the replacement cost stated within the policy) or their right to replace the item at their own cost (of course discounted to them, which they receive due to the enormous quantity of replacement pieces they purchase each and every yeardue to loss).
Estimated Retail Value appraisals can be helpful determining "retail value" but if such an appraisal is presented to your insurance carrier, your premiums will be high and if the insurance carrier has the right to replace the item at their cost(and not hand you over a check for value) then you've paid through the nose for extra coverage you did not require.
If the item is so unique that you feel no insurance carrier in the world could replace the item - seek out the most qualified gemologist you can find to determine value.
Quality Assurance Report...A QAR can be useful in just determining if a piece is authentic. In other words, you just purchased a 3 carat diamond which is set in Platinum. Is it a 3 carat diamond? Is it set in Platinum? The least expensive way to find out is to bring your piece to an independent appraiser and ask for a QAR.The Last Word...Remember, every appraisal in the world is based upon an opinion. Nothing is set in stone except the ring on your finger. Every appraisal in world hasdisclosures protecting the appraisal gepany fromlegal action.The most widely known gemological lab has been under fire by the FTC however, consumers flock to them forappraisals based upon brand name recognition.
Remember, always buy a piece of jewelry or gem based upon what that piece brings to you!
Jewelry
Other guides relating to jewelry and gemstone buyingwhich you may find helpful are as follows:
Gold Prices and Gold Jewelry
Beginner's Guide To Buying Guitar Gear.
Are you a young guitarist looking to be able tolearn? If you answered yes tothat question thenlook no further becausethis guide is for you.Many people don't know where to start out. Some questions you should ask yourself are - "What is my budget?" "What players do I want to sound like?" "What type of amp should get?" And if you have heard of these you are probably asking "What is the difference between tube and solid state amps ?" And"What is a stompbox?". First let me adress an important issue that many people overlook .It is much moreimportant to buy a good amp than a $3000 guitar, and you dont need one of those fancy stacks yet. Those 10 foot high stacks may look cool but lets face it you wont be needing one for a while. Learn about playing because if you go deaf it won't help you much. I would recgeend a small gebo amp no larger than an 8 inch speaker and about 15 watts, but if you really have your mind set on volume go for a 12 inch. Tip #1 - If an amp has wheels you dont want it yet. For a beginner you should start out with a solid state amp(my personal recgeendation is a roland micro cube, they are small, light weight, and model other amps to help you decide on what type you want when you upgrade and they are easy to find on okay). About stompboxes, they are just pedals that change tone but you shouldn't have to worry about those yet, and if you ot the micro cube it has all that stuff built in. The guitar choice depends on the style you play.There are thousands of guitarson okay. For a country twang-like sound definitely go with the telecaster, or tele for short. For otherstyles go with a fat strat for now because it has both types of pickups(humbucker and single-coil). I regemend leather straps because they are more gefortable and the cheap straps snap off when you least expect it(just think about what would havehappened if that happened to someone like hendrix).For cables many people don't know what to choose as it is gemonly overlooked in articles like these. Choose good grade cables like monster or pro-co. Cables are expensive but they last a lifetime. Just so you know you dont need wireless yet either, a 15 footcable will be more than enough. If you have any more qustions don't hesitate to send me a message. All of the items listed here are numerous on okay, and okay is where you'll find the little thingsthat guitar stores will charge you double the price for. But my last topic is one i can't stress enough. Get what you want, not what everybody uses or what looks cool. If it doesn't fell right you wont like it.
Brendan Ruane
Brendan Ruane
What is 45X, 60X or 80X Flash Memory?
What is 45X, 60X or 80X Flash Memory?
Todays growing handheld devices market requires flash memory to keep pace with the need for speed. How do they do this? Faster and faster memory is the answer! Simply put, the quicker the flash memory speed, the better your camera performs: saving images to and reading from the memory card with less time waiting between pictures! Youll capture those photo opportunities youd normally miss while your camera automatically saves the last image taken.
Speed ratings stand for data transfer rates in Megabytes per second (MB/s). It follows a simple formula where 1X = 150kb/s. Heres a general Performance Chart to help you do the math.
45X = 6.75MB/s Transfer Rate
60X = 9MB/s Transfer Rate
80X = 12MB/s Transfer Rate
133X = 20MB/s Transfer Rate
Even as you read this, higher speed cards are being introduced to the marketplace in a race to satisfy the consumer.
Todays growing handheld devices market requires flash memory to keep pace with the need for speed. How do they do this? Faster and faster memory is the answer! Simply put, the quicker the flash memory speed, the better your camera performs: saving images to and reading from the memory card with less time waiting between pictures! Youll capture those photo opportunities youd normally miss while your camera automatically saves the last image taken.
Speed ratings stand for data transfer rates in Megabytes per second (MB/s). It follows a simple formula where 1X = 150kb/s. Heres a general Performance Chart to help you do the math.
45X = 6.75MB/s Transfer Rate
60X = 9MB/s Transfer Rate
80X = 12MB/s Transfer Rate
133X = 20MB/s Transfer Rate
Even as you read this, higher speed cards are being introduced to the marketplace in a race to satisfy the consumer.
Vintage JP Sterling Jewelry
A little info that may assistance you in your collection of Vintage JP Jewelry!
In regards to the stylized JP logo and Sterling on the back ofVintage JP Jewelry.
According to Fred Rezazadah's authoritative book, Collectible Silver Jewelry Identification and Price Guide, the mark is that of the Pacific Jewelry Manufacturing Co., based in California. Their jewelry designs were produced in the 1960s to early 1970s, its closing date, and most were high-quality pieces.
The following photos are examples of JP Vintage Jewelry.
Thanks for stoppping by, it's my hope that this information has been of some assistance to you in collecting Vintage Jewelry!
Vintage Bling and Other Things by Rose
In regards to the stylized JP logo and Sterling on the back ofVintage JP Jewelry.
According to Fred Rezazadah's authoritative book, Collectible Silver Jewelry Identification and Price Guide, the mark is that of the Pacific Jewelry Manufacturing Co., based in California. Their jewelry designs were produced in the 1960s to early 1970s, its closing date, and most were high-quality pieces.
The following photos are examples of JP Vintage Jewelry.
Thanks for stoppping by, it's my hope that this information has been of some assistance to you in collecting Vintage Jewelry!
Vintage Bling and Other Things by Rose
factory direct spas
Factory Direct Spas, took the money and ran. Very dissapointed that there are such dishonest people out there. I hope thatthey get what theydeserve.
Seven Humanity Rock and Republic
Jeans on okay are generally 98% fake. I was fooled that my Sevens were real until I started to see the difference in the tags. They are very very hard to notice, your eyes can't see them until you are only 3 to 4 inches away. I don't mind buying them if they are $40 less, but for those of you who are buying them over that price is MAD. Let me tell you why, you can buy these jeans from these same guys for like 17 each, if and if you buy 10 ata time. Try me out, just go ahead and buy from those who would sell in bulk. They all gee with tags and they all look good, but the fabric is nothing gepared to the real thing. I have many real ones and some fake, and the true paper denim is so much softer on your skin. These real pants are ridiculously price, but the fake ones are more ridiculous because they are priced as nearly as the real thing.
START YOUR OWN CHOCOLATE FOUNTAIN RENTAL BUSINESS
A GUIDE TO STARTING YOUR OWN CHOCOLATE FOUNTAIN RENTAL BUSINESS - MAKE MONEY NOW WITH A geMERCIAL CHOCOLATE FOUNTAIN
WORK FOR YOURSELF!!
Have you dreamed about begeing your
own boss and understand that starting a chocolate fountain business is a
fun (and delicious!) way to make this a reality!!
MAKE MORE MONEY!!
Are you a hotel,
restaurant, coffee shop, candy store, B
WORK FOR YOURSELF!!
Have you dreamed about begeing your
own boss and understand that starting a chocolate fountain business is a
fun (and delicious!) way to make this a reality!!
MAKE MORE MONEY!!
Are you a hotel,
restaurant, coffee shop, candy store, B
What to look for in a Kellogg 1000 RedBar Phone Part 1
The Kellogg Switchboard and Supply Co. gemenced the design of the Kellogg 1000 Masterphone in 1935. It was based upon Kellogg's largely successful Triad Circuit which had been developed between 1927 and 1930. By 1935, Kellogg had been producing the Masterphone Series which included the Model 700, 725, 900, 925 and 9917 wall phones. It was at this point that the Mod. 1000 was conceived and designed.
To understand the 1000 Red Bar or redbar, you have to grasp its genesis in the Triad Circuit. This circuit was designed by Kellogg engineers to be universal. That meant that the unit had to be capable of being used in a local battery or gemon battery circuit, with or without magneto, and/or capable of being used with automatic dial service. In short, the telephone had to be readily convertible and easily adapted to just about any kind of know telephone subscription service available at the time. In order to acgeplish this task, the Triad Circuit was designed to contain all of the gemon geponents to all known telephone service circuits. Simply changing wiring configurations made it easy to adapt the telephone unit to the needed line.
By 1935, the Autoamtic Electric Monophones had begee quite popular with independent telephone gepanies. AE developed the Model 34 which contained the ringer, condensor and induction coils in one telephone. Kellogg had adapted the Trial Circuit to fit into their 925 desk set, and that was successful, and it had also adapted many ringer boxes or subscriber set models to accept receivers, transmitters and dials. But it was time to develop a telephone that was sleek, gepact and very simple in its application.
The 1000 was conceived to acgeplish a sophisticated, advanced system with few hitches and virtually no wiring issues that plagued other phone designs. This acgeplishment gave rise to a wiring block in which a condensor, an induction coil, and a dial plug would simply plug into unique sockets built into the wiring block itself. A ringer unit would be placed between the induction and condensor coils, and the circuit itself would be sealed against the inside base plate of the telephone to keep dust out of the inner circuit. A dust cover was conceived to fit over the hookswitch, and a single knob was added to operate the hook switch. It is against that knob that the famous redbar plunger presses when the phone is hung up.
The main geponents of the Red Bar or redbar are the handset (in which a transmitter and receiver capsule are contained, which plug into a pair of male conductors), a handset cord, the wiring block, dial cord and plug, condensor and induction coils, ringer, baseplate, dial OR DIAL STRAPE, base shell, plunger assembly and line cord.
The interchangeable parts are the 35A, 113A and 114A induction coils, #10 or #11 or #15 or #21 dials, and ringer assemblies that include a wide range of harmonic, straightline and straightline biased ringers.
The base shells were as follows: (1) metal desk model (2) bakelite desk model and (3) bakelite wall.
The weakest points on the bakelite 1000 Red Bar are as follows: (1) The base shell around the feet. Usually right front or left rear. These are the points of the shell is likely to be cracked or form hairlines. Next, these are followed by the sides of the cradle. Cracks do develop there too. Finally, some of the earlier handsets develope hairlines and chunking around the receiver cap on the handset. (2) The wiring block or network tends to crack in 2 separate places. The first is center screw post and the second likely place to form a crack is where the line cord screws in.
Magneto or crank Redbars came in several varieties. Metal desk, bakelite with aluminum skirt desk, or bakelite with aluminum or metal skirt wall. Beware of magneto telephones if you intend to use them on a regular phone line. Unless you actually intend to use them as magnetos for an interge system of sorts, or you actually find a switchboard driven telephone gepany to use them with, they will not be useful unless converted. Conversion requires several steps. first the magneto has to be disconnected. Second, the 114A induction coil has to be replaced with a 113A induction coil, and finally the wiring block has to be reconfigured for gemon battery type.
GO TO PART 2
To understand the 1000 Red Bar or redbar, you have to grasp its genesis in the Triad Circuit. This circuit was designed by Kellogg engineers to be universal. That meant that the unit had to be capable of being used in a local battery or gemon battery circuit, with or without magneto, and/or capable of being used with automatic dial service. In short, the telephone had to be readily convertible and easily adapted to just about any kind of know telephone subscription service available at the time. In order to acgeplish this task, the Triad Circuit was designed to contain all of the gemon geponents to all known telephone service circuits. Simply changing wiring configurations made it easy to adapt the telephone unit to the needed line.
By 1935, the Autoamtic Electric Monophones had begee quite popular with independent telephone gepanies. AE developed the Model 34 which contained the ringer, condensor and induction coils in one telephone. Kellogg had adapted the Trial Circuit to fit into their 925 desk set, and that was successful, and it had also adapted many ringer boxes or subscriber set models to accept receivers, transmitters and dials. But it was time to develop a telephone that was sleek, gepact and very simple in its application.
The 1000 was conceived to acgeplish a sophisticated, advanced system with few hitches and virtually no wiring issues that plagued other phone designs. This acgeplishment gave rise to a wiring block in which a condensor, an induction coil, and a dial plug would simply plug into unique sockets built into the wiring block itself. A ringer unit would be placed between the induction and condensor coils, and the circuit itself would be sealed against the inside base plate of the telephone to keep dust out of the inner circuit. A dust cover was conceived to fit over the hookswitch, and a single knob was added to operate the hook switch. It is against that knob that the famous redbar plunger presses when the phone is hung up.
The main geponents of the Red Bar or redbar are the handset (in which a transmitter and receiver capsule are contained, which plug into a pair of male conductors), a handset cord, the wiring block, dial cord and plug, condensor and induction coils, ringer, baseplate, dial OR DIAL STRAPE, base shell, plunger assembly and line cord.
The interchangeable parts are the 35A, 113A and 114A induction coils, #10 or #11 or #15 or #21 dials, and ringer assemblies that include a wide range of harmonic, straightline and straightline biased ringers.
The base shells were as follows: (1) metal desk model (2) bakelite desk model and (3) bakelite wall.
The weakest points on the bakelite 1000 Red Bar are as follows: (1) The base shell around the feet. Usually right front or left rear. These are the points of the shell is likely to be cracked or form hairlines. Next, these are followed by the sides of the cradle. Cracks do develop there too. Finally, some of the earlier handsets develope hairlines and chunking around the receiver cap on the handset. (2) The wiring block or network tends to crack in 2 separate places. The first is center screw post and the second likely place to form a crack is where the line cord screws in.
Magneto or crank Redbars came in several varieties. Metal desk, bakelite with aluminum skirt desk, or bakelite with aluminum or metal skirt wall. Beware of magneto telephones if you intend to use them on a regular phone line. Unless you actually intend to use them as magnetos for an interge system of sorts, or you actually find a switchboard driven telephone gepany to use them with, they will not be useful unless converted. Conversion requires several steps. first the magneto has to be disconnected. Second, the 114A induction coil has to be replaced with a 113A induction coil, and finally the wiring block has to be reconfigured for gemon battery type.
GO TO PART 2
Venetian Millefiori Trade Beads
Millefiori is an Italian word meaning " a thousand flowers". Millefiori beads are also known as "mosiac" beads throughout the world.The making of millefiori beads is a two step process. First the murrine or cane is made and then these are applied to a molten wound glass core and made into beads.
The millefiori beads made in Venice were imported by the thousands to Africa beginning in the late 1800s and traded or sold for various things. Most of the surviving bead sample cards, showing these beads as they were originally sold, are dated to the 1920s. However, this does not mean these beads were not made prior to that time. A good example of this is the bead timeline in The History of Beads (Dubin) where millefiori beads are dated to the mid 1800 through the early 1900s.
Old millefiori beads started to be imported to the United States from Africa in the late 1960s and were sold as "Trade Beads" by the importers and African Traders. In fact, some African Traders today will show you millefiori beads if you ask for "Trade Beads". Those of you who experienced the Hippie era in the US might remember these as "Love Beads".
These are wonderful beads with thousands of patterns and colors. To read more about millefiori beads and to see thousands of examples please see Volume VI- Millefiori Beads From the West African Trade (Picard)
We have some wonderful examples of old Venetian Millefiori Trade beads in our okay store,Africa Direct.
Copyright Africa Direct 2006
The millefiori beads made in Venice were imported by the thousands to Africa beginning in the late 1800s and traded or sold for various things. Most of the surviving bead sample cards, showing these beads as they were originally sold, are dated to the 1920s. However, this does not mean these beads were not made prior to that time. A good example of this is the bead timeline in The History of Beads (Dubin) where millefiori beads are dated to the mid 1800 through the early 1900s.
Old millefiori beads started to be imported to the United States from Africa in the late 1960s and were sold as "Trade Beads" by the importers and African Traders. In fact, some African Traders today will show you millefiori beads if you ask for "Trade Beads". Those of you who experienced the Hippie era in the US might remember these as "Love Beads".
These are wonderful beads with thousands of patterns and colors. To read more about millefiori beads and to see thousands of examples please see Volume VI- Millefiori Beads From the West African Trade (Picard)
We have some wonderful examples of old Venetian Millefiori Trade beads in our okay store,Africa Direct.
Copyright Africa Direct 2006
Modifying your NISSAN 350Z: Introduction to Mods!
Welgee to your NISSAN 350Z! In this guide I hope to help you through the modification process of your 350Z! Clear up some things about "Warranty" and Aftermarket modifications. What parts will give you power and performance, and what will not.
So you don't want to modify your Z because your dealer says "Your warranty will be VOID!" Not so fast there... There is a law called the "Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act" which in short states that no modification to your vehicle will void any part of your warranty unless that part can be directly effected by the aftermarket modifiction. An example; If one installs a Cold Air Intake system (if you dont know what this is you will learn from my guides) and drives through 2 feet of water, sucks up water and hydrolocks the motor. The warranty on the motor will be void since the intake sucked up the water. That is a very extreeme example but it does happen. There are things you can do when purchasing mods that have parts that will keep things like this from happening, not to mention staying away from driving through lakes in your 350Z!
So, Read along through my guides for tips and tricks of modifying your 350Z and getting the most out of your money!
So you don't want to modify your Z because your dealer says "Your warranty will be VOID!" Not so fast there... There is a law called the "Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act" which in short states that no modification to your vehicle will void any part of your warranty unless that part can be directly effected by the aftermarket modifiction. An example; If one installs a Cold Air Intake system (if you dont know what this is you will learn from my guides) and drives through 2 feet of water, sucks up water and hydrolocks the motor. The warranty on the motor will be void since the intake sucked up the water. That is a very extreeme example but it does happen. There are things you can do when purchasing mods that have parts that will keep things like this from happening, not to mention staying away from driving through lakes in your 350Z!
So, Read along through my guides for tips and tricks of modifying your 350Z and getting the most out of your money!
Smart Buyers Use Checklists To Help Determine Value
Introduction
Most of us who shop and make purchases online are looking for a "good deal." Unfortunately, it is easy to start bidding without a clear vision of what a "good deal" is.
Determining Value
The best time to evaluate what the potential Value of an item will be is before you place your 1st bid. The true "Final Value" of an item will depend on a number of factors including:
Most of us who shop and make purchases online are looking for a "good deal." Unfortunately, it is easy to start bidding without a clear vision of what a "good deal" is.
Determining Value
The best time to evaluate what the potential Value of an item will be is before you place your 1st bid. The true "Final Value" of an item will depend on a number of factors including:
Sunday, September 11, 2011
The Nikon FM 35mm SLR Film Camera
The Nikon FM 35mm Single Lens Reflex camera is a manual focus film camera. If you have vision problems and/or don't want to be bothered with getting film developed, this is not the camera for you. I have bought and sold at least 20 Nikon FMs and taken at least a roll of film on each one. This is an extremely reliable camera. I have only gee across one that needed professional service for a minor electrical problem.
The FM was introduced in 1977... a year before it's younger brother, the Nikon FE. The FM is the mechanical shutter version of the more expensive FE and some feel this makes the FM even more reliable than the very reliable FE. The FM is not loaded with a lot of fancy features. But it's basic design is more than enough for even the seasoned photographer and very reliable. The fact that these cameras are still in operation today is a testament to their quality.
Exposure is controlled by manually adjusting shutter speed and aperture. Inside the viewfinder (shown above) there is an easy to read exposure meter on the right side of the display. A red LED lights next to a (plus), - (minus), or O (neutral) sign. If the LED next to the plus sign is lit, the image is over exposed. If the LED is lit next to the minus sign, the image is underexposed. The idea is to adjust your shutter speed and aperture until the LED next to the neutral sign lights. The LEDs will also light in gebination... for example... if the LEDs light next to both the neutral and plus sign it indicates the shot is slightly overexposed... but will still look fine. Likewise, if the LEDs light next to both the neutral and minus sign, the camera is telling you the shot is slightly underexposed... but again... will still look fine. There is also a little oddity about the FM... the film advance lever also serves as the on/off switch for the camera. You have to back the film advance lever off the camera 30 degrees (it will click into place) to turn the camera on. I have purchased 2 of these cameras with the seller saying they wouldn't turn on only to find they work fine. It is my theory these people just didn't know how to turn the camera on. Shutter speeds range from 1 second to 1/1000 of a second. The camera also has the B (bulb) mode for use with a shutter release cable. In this mode you can take long exposure night time shots of stars, traffic and city skylines.
If purchasing a Nikon FM, be sure to determine the obvious questions...
Does the camera work? Do the LEDs inside the viewfinder operate correctly?
The FM was introduced in 1977... a year before it's younger brother, the Nikon FE. The FM is the mechanical shutter version of the more expensive FE and some feel this makes the FM even more reliable than the very reliable FE. The FM is not loaded with a lot of fancy features. But it's basic design is more than enough for even the seasoned photographer and very reliable. The fact that these cameras are still in operation today is a testament to their quality.
Exposure is controlled by manually adjusting shutter speed and aperture. Inside the viewfinder (shown above) there is an easy to read exposure meter on the right side of the display. A red LED lights next to a (plus), - (minus), or O (neutral) sign. If the LED next to the plus sign is lit, the image is over exposed. If the LED is lit next to the minus sign, the image is underexposed. The idea is to adjust your shutter speed and aperture until the LED next to the neutral sign lights. The LEDs will also light in gebination... for example... if the LEDs light next to both the neutral and plus sign it indicates the shot is slightly overexposed... but will still look fine. Likewise, if the LEDs light next to both the neutral and minus sign, the camera is telling you the shot is slightly underexposed... but again... will still look fine. There is also a little oddity about the FM... the film advance lever also serves as the on/off switch for the camera. You have to back the film advance lever off the camera 30 degrees (it will click into place) to turn the camera on. I have purchased 2 of these cameras with the seller saying they wouldn't turn on only to find they work fine. It is my theory these people just didn't know how to turn the camera on. Shutter speeds range from 1 second to 1/1000 of a second. The camera also has the B (bulb) mode for use with a shutter release cable. In this mode you can take long exposure night time shots of stars, traffic and city skylines.
If purchasing a Nikon FM, be sure to determine the obvious questions...
Does the camera work? Do the LEDs inside the viewfinder operate correctly?
Purchasing a Minolta X-700 on s
The Minolta X-700 is a great film camera with many features used by professional photographers yet easy to use for the beginner or student. It features three modes of picture taking: PROGRAM - YOU JUST FOCUS AND SHOOT, THE X-700 SETS THE APERTURE AND SHUTTER SPEED FOR YOU. APERTURE PRIORITY - YOU SET THE APERTURE, THE X-700 AUTOMATICALLY SETS THE SHUTTER SPEED. MANUAL EXPOSURE - YOU SET BOTH APERTURE AND SHUTTER SPEED TO GET THE RESULTS YOU WANT.
Before you read more... understand... this is not one of the new, fancy digital cameras with auto-focus that so many people are using today. It is a manual focus camera (meaning YOU focus) which uses film that has to be developed. Many professional photographers still prefer film over digital. But understand you can not hook this camera up to your geputer and download photos. The film has to be purchased, installed and after picture-taking removed and taken to a developer. Places like CVS, Wal-Mart, Rite-Aid all have developing services. And most places that develop this film will also be able to put your pictures on a CD which makes it easy to email them or publish them on a Website. I routinely get my film photos developed on CD only (no prints) for $1.99. Okay... enough about film... now more on the camera... there are several items you should be aware of before buying one of these cameras on okay. 1: SEALS: The light seals keep light from sneaking into the film chamber. Even if a camera has never been used, these seals deteriorate over time and need to be replaced. So always ask the seller about the condition of the light seals. If they are worn out they will be sticky to the touch and leave residue on the film chamber door. Ask your seller about the condition of the light seals. 2: CAPACITOR: These cameras are known for capacitors that wear/dry out and fail. When this happens the camera does not work. The symptom is... no shutter release... no film advance. There's nothing wrong with the film advance. It's just that it won't advance until you release the shutter and the shutter won't release because the capacitors have failed. You can usually have this problem fixed for around $75 to $100 dollars but beware of this problem. If a seller says the shutter won't fire, it could be something as easy as changing the batteries, or it could be the camera needs new capacitors. Here's an easy way to tell the difference. If the LEDs light up in the view finder, that means the batteries are good and the camera is getting power so if the shutter won't fire, the problem is more likely than not, bad capacitors. If the LEDs don't light up and the shutter won't fire, there's a good chance the camera just need new batteries... (A76 1.5V) which can be purchased on okay for very reasonable rates. 3: VIEW FINDER: Ask sellers if the viewfinder is clear and free of scratches. While this would not affect picture quality it is kind of annoying to see specs of dust and scratches while trying to gepose your shot. A good seller should provide photos and descriptions to answer these questions, but some people do not have the time or expertise so often times you need to ask. Their answers will tell you a lot about not only the camera but also the seller
Before you read more... understand... this is not one of the new, fancy digital cameras with auto-focus that so many people are using today. It is a manual focus camera (meaning YOU focus) which uses film that has to be developed. Many professional photographers still prefer film over digital. But understand you can not hook this camera up to your geputer and download photos. The film has to be purchased, installed and after picture-taking removed and taken to a developer. Places like CVS, Wal-Mart, Rite-Aid all have developing services. And most places that develop this film will also be able to put your pictures on a CD which makes it easy to email them or publish them on a Website. I routinely get my film photos developed on CD only (no prints) for $1.99. Okay... enough about film... now more on the camera... there are several items you should be aware of before buying one of these cameras on okay. 1: SEALS: The light seals keep light from sneaking into the film chamber. Even if a camera has never been used, these seals deteriorate over time and need to be replaced. So always ask the seller about the condition of the light seals. If they are worn out they will be sticky to the touch and leave residue on the film chamber door. Ask your seller about the condition of the light seals. 2: CAPACITOR: These cameras are known for capacitors that wear/dry out and fail. When this happens the camera does not work. The symptom is... no shutter release... no film advance. There's nothing wrong with the film advance. It's just that it won't advance until you release the shutter and the shutter won't release because the capacitors have failed. You can usually have this problem fixed for around $75 to $100 dollars but beware of this problem. If a seller says the shutter won't fire, it could be something as easy as changing the batteries, or it could be the camera needs new capacitors. Here's an easy way to tell the difference. If the LEDs light up in the view finder, that means the batteries are good and the camera is getting power so if the shutter won't fire, the problem is more likely than not, bad capacitors. If the LEDs don't light up and the shutter won't fire, there's a good chance the camera just need new batteries... (A76 1.5V) which can be purchased on okay for very reasonable rates. 3: VIEW FINDER: Ask sellers if the viewfinder is clear and free of scratches. While this would not affect picture quality it is kind of annoying to see specs of dust and scratches while trying to gepose your shot. A good seller should provide photos and descriptions to answer these questions, but some people do not have the time or expertise so often times you need to ask. Their answers will tell you a lot about not only the camera but also the seller
Cleaning your Diecast and plastic models
Cleaning your models ( Diecast and Plastic) can be a very delicate job. To dust your models, use a very very soft Blush brush, the kind your wife uses to apply make up. It can be purchased at almost any retail store.
When dusting just isn't enough, then you can wash your model this way:
Using the same type of brush and an antibacterial dish soap,( I use Ajax , it seems to work the best for me) wash the model very carefully, rinse it under the faucet with warm waterand dry it with a hairdryer. I am an advil model person and have been doing this for over 10 yrs with no problems. The antibacterial soap will NOT harm the paint or chrome. In fact, it will make your model look like new again.
When dusting just isn't enough, then you can wash your model this way:
Using the same type of brush and an antibacterial dish soap,( I use Ajax , it seems to work the best for me) wash the model very carefully, rinse it under the faucet with warm waterand dry it with a hairdryer. I am an advil model person and have been doing this for over 10 yrs with no problems. The antibacterial soap will NOT harm the paint or chrome. In fact, it will make your model look like new again.
HOW TO STITCH A PAINTED CANVAS
How to stitch a painted canvas?? When stitching a painted canvas you can sometimes see the ink mark from the designers line drawing which is done prior to painting the canvas, remember to keep your stitches inside the line unless you are working from a stitch guide that tells you otherwise.
When you are stitching a painted canvas there are several areas of the same color that may be lighter or darker, this is usually done for shading a special technique used when stitching to appear like a shadow, try using the same thread you are using to stitch the area in a lighter or darker shade as needed. Shading is supposed to subtle, not sticking out that your eye catches that first when looking at it.
There are several areas on painted canvas's for embellishments. Beads, charms and decorative stitches can be used for these areas. For example on flowers you could apply a beaded inner or outline along with leaf stitches. On Christmas designs where you see small candy canes you can apply a candy cane charm. To do this you would stitch the area gepletely first in a few strands of floss and then apply the charm over it. Technique stitches can also be used for some of these areas, try using the rhodes stitch on round areas to give a raised effect, try stitching it in a silk serica for a smooth look or a perle cotton for a bumpy look. Algerian eye and leviathian are also great stitches that give dimension.
If you don't own any stitch books you should buy at least one. They are guaranteed to enhance your stitching and give you tons of ideas. There are so many books on the market today its hard to choose from. Our favorite is the Stitches for Effect Series. These books have a section in the back for you to look up what type of item are you stitching i.e. a snowman, the book will tell you the best stitches fora snowman and what threads to use to achieve that effect when stitching. There are four books in this series and each one is better than the other one with tons of stitches and clear diagrams. You will refer to these books over and over again and they will begee the ONLY books you use, and the BEST books you will ever buy.
Stitch guides are very helpful and if your canvas does not gee with one ask about buying one. They are generally inexpensive and worth every penny. You will refer to them time and again when stitching something similar. For example, if you bought a stitch guide for a piece that is a Cookie you would refer to that guide whenever you stitched a cookie or any design that has a cookie in it. The choices of threads, stitches and colors on the guide enhance your project!
We hope that you found this guide helpful, we are always available for questions so do not hesitate to contact us, we are happy to help any way we can. We stitch also and enjoy sharing our knowledge of the needlepoint craft with everyone!
When you are stitching a painted canvas there are several areas of the same color that may be lighter or darker, this is usually done for shading a special technique used when stitching to appear like a shadow, try using the same thread you are using to stitch the area in a lighter or darker shade as needed. Shading is supposed to subtle, not sticking out that your eye catches that first when looking at it.
There are several areas on painted canvas's for embellishments. Beads, charms and decorative stitches can be used for these areas. For example on flowers you could apply a beaded inner or outline along with leaf stitches. On Christmas designs where you see small candy canes you can apply a candy cane charm. To do this you would stitch the area gepletely first in a few strands of floss and then apply the charm over it. Technique stitches can also be used for some of these areas, try using the rhodes stitch on round areas to give a raised effect, try stitching it in a silk serica for a smooth look or a perle cotton for a bumpy look. Algerian eye and leviathian are also great stitches that give dimension.
If you don't own any stitch books you should buy at least one. They are guaranteed to enhance your stitching and give you tons of ideas. There are so many books on the market today its hard to choose from. Our favorite is the Stitches for Effect Series. These books have a section in the back for you to look up what type of item are you stitching i.e. a snowman, the book will tell you the best stitches fora snowman and what threads to use to achieve that effect when stitching. There are four books in this series and each one is better than the other one with tons of stitches and clear diagrams. You will refer to these books over and over again and they will begee the ONLY books you use, and the BEST books you will ever buy.
Stitch guides are very helpful and if your canvas does not gee with one ask about buying one. They are generally inexpensive and worth every penny. You will refer to them time and again when stitching something similar. For example, if you bought a stitch guide for a piece that is a Cookie you would refer to that guide whenever you stitched a cookie or any design that has a cookie in it. The choices of threads, stitches and colors on the guide enhance your project!
We hope that you found this guide helpful, we are always available for questions so do not hesitate to contact us, we are happy to help any way we can. We stitch also and enjoy sharing our knowledge of the needlepoint craft with everyone!
Cyberstalking and Cyberbullying; It CAN Happen To You!
Cyberstalking can be defined as threatening behavior or unwanted advances directed at another using the Internet and other forms of online and geputer gemunications. Think it can't happen to you here on okay? Think again. There are plenty of people who frequent the message boards who will pretend to be your friend, bring you in to their good graces and then turn on you in a heartbeat if you dare attempt to have a thought of your own that differs from theirs. There are plenty of buyers and sellers who are less than stable who can and will hold it against you if a transaction goes less than perfectly.
Cyberstalkers target their victims through chat rooms, message boards, discussion forums, and e-mail. Cyberstalking takes many forms such as: threatening or obscene e-mail; spamming (in which a stalker sends a victim a multitude of junk e-mail); live chat harassment or flaming (online verbal abuse); leaving improper messages on message boards or in guest books; sending electronic viruses; sending unsolicited e-mail; tracing another person's geputer and Internet activity, and electronic identity theft.
Similar to stalking off-line, online stalking can be quite an unnervingexperience for victims, placing them at risk of psychological trauma, and possible physical harm. Many cyberstalking situations do evolve into off-line stalking, and a victim may experience abusive and excessive phone calls, vandalism, threatening or obscene mail, trespassing, and physical assault. I have personally experienced such a situation over this past summer myself to the point where I have had to hire an attorney to send cease and desist letters to my harassers.
Cyberstalking and the Law; What can you do to protect yourself.
With personal information begeing readily available to an increasing number of people through the Internet and other advanced technology, state legislators are addressing the problem of stalkers who harass and threaten their victims over the World Wide Web. Stalking laws and other statutes criminalizing harassment behavior currently in effect in many states may already address this issue by making it a crime to gemunicate by any means with the intent to harass or alarm the victim. Be sure to check your state's websites for information on harassment and cyberstalking. This is a real crime that is really happening to good people just like you every single day right here on okay.
If You AreA Victim of Cyberstalking
1) Victims who are under the age of 18 should tell their parents or another adult they trust about any harassments and/or threats.
2) Experts suggest that in cases where the offender is known, victims should send the stalker a clear written warning. Specifically, victims should gemunicate that the contact is unwanted, and ask the perpetrator to cease sending gemunications of any kind. Victims should do this only once. Then, no matter the response, victims should under no circumstances ever gemunicate with the stalker again. Victims should save copies of this gemunication in both electronic and hard copy form. This is imperative because if you need to involve law enforcement, you have proof of your claims.
3) If the harassment continues, the victim may wish to file a geplaint with the stalker's Internet service provider, as well as with their own service provider. Many Internet service providers offer tools that filter or block gemunications from specific individuals. Do not count on the ISP to help you though after only one geplaint. You must stay on top of reporting each and every message you receive that can be proven to gee from your stalker.
4) As soon as individuals suspect they are victims of online harassment or cyberstalking, they should start collecting all evidence and document all contact made by the stalker. Save all e-mail, postings, or other gemunications in both electronic and hard-copy form. If possible, save all of the header information from e-mails and newsgroup postings. Record the dates and times of any contact with the stalker.
5) Victims may also want to start a log of each gemunication explaining the situation in more detail. Victims may want to document how the harassment is affecting their lives and what steps they have taken to stop the harassment.
6) Victims may want to file a report with local law enforcement or contact their local prosecutor's office to see what charges, if any, can be pursued. Victims should save copies of police reports and record all contact with law enforcement officials and the prosecutor's office. Don't be afraid to do this. You may find it embarassing or think that the police won't take you seriously, but they will. Internet harassment is a felony and the police CAN and WILL pursue it on your behalf if you have enough evidence to support your claim. I have had to use local law enforcement as well as an attorney to help alleviate some of my challenges with my cyberstalker.
7) Victims who are being continually harassed may want to consider changing their e-mail address, Internet service provider, a home phone number, and should examine the possibility of using encryption software or privacy protection programs. Any local geputer store can offer a variety of protective software, options and suggestions. Victims may also want to learn how to use the filtering capabilities of email programs to block e-mails from certain addresses.
8) Furthermore, victims should contact online directory listingsto request removal from their directory.
9) Finally, under no circumstances should victims agree to meet with the perpetrator face to face to "work it out," or "talk." No contact should ever be made with the stalker. Meeting a stalker in person can be very dangerous.
So, What Is Cyberbullying
Personal geputers offer several advantages to individuals inclined to harass others. First, electronic bullies can remain virtually anonymous. Temporary email accounts and pseudonyms in chat rooms, instant messaging programs, and other Internet venues can make it very difficult for individuals to determine the identity of aggressors. Cyberbullies can hide behind some measure of anonymity when using the text-message capabilities of a cellular phone or their personal geputer to bully another individual, which perhaps frees them from normative and social constraints on their behavior. Further, it seems that cyberbullies might be emboldened when using electronic means to carry out their antagonistic agenda because it takes less energy and courage to express hurtful gements using a keypad or a keyboard than with ones voice. Additionally, cyberbullies do not have to be larger and stronger than their victims, as had been the case in traditional bullying. Instead of a victim being several years younger and/or drastically weaker than his bully, victim and cyberbully alike can be just about anyone imaginable.
Second, electronic forums lack supervision. While chat hosts regularly observe the dialog in some chat rooms in an effort to police conversations and evict offensive individuals, personal messages sent between users are viewable only by the sender and the recipient, and therefore outside the regulatory reach of the proper authorities. okay doesn't really monitor their own discussion forums. They rely on Live World which is a moderation service and Live World relies on the policing to be done by the gemunity itself. Unless a member reports a post, Live World has no reason to look at the thread or posts. Furthermore, there are no individuals to monitor or censor offensive content in electronic mail or text messages sent via geputer or cellular phone. Another problem is the increasingly gemon presence of geputers in the private environments of adolescent bedrooms. Indeed, teenagers often know more about geputers and cellular phones than their parents and are therefore able to operate the technologies without worry or concern that a probing parent will discover their experience with bullying (whether as a victim or offender).
In a similar vein, the inseparability of a cellular phone from its owner makes that person a perpetual target for victimization. Users often need to keep it turned on for legitimate uses, which provides the opportunity for those with malicious intentions to engage in persistent unwelgee behavior such as harassing telephone calls or threatening and insulting statements via the cellular phones text messaging capabilities. There may truly be no rest for the weary as cyberbullying penetrates the walls of a home, traditionally a place where victims could seek refuge. Do not be afraid to get your telephone numbers changed to protect you from such harassment. Many phone gepanies will change your number at no charge to you as a one time courtesy if you are being harassed.
How Does Harassment Differ from Stalking and Bullying?
Harassment by geputer is a crime in several U.S. states. It is distinct from stalking in that stalking typically requires two or more contacts, whereas harassment by geputer may be a single incident. It is also different from regular harassment, because the offense typically engepasses a range of crimes that would not be considered harassment if conducted in person.
Connecticut was the first state to pass a statute making it a criminal offense to harass someone by geputer. Michigan and Arizona have also passed laws banning harassment by electronic means
Conclusion
So, if you think that cyberstalking and cyberbullying and harassment can't happen to you, think again. okay is not the safe haven people once felt it was and okay cannot and will not do anything to help you. Unfortunately there are people in this world who are miserable and unhappy and want to share that misery with anyone they can grip in their claws. You have to take the reins and help yourself. Hopefully, this guide will help you with the tools needed to make the issue stop. Do not be afraid and do not allow the behavior to continue. There is help out there.
Cyberstalkers target their victims through chat rooms, message boards, discussion forums, and e-mail. Cyberstalking takes many forms such as: threatening or obscene e-mail; spamming (in which a stalker sends a victim a multitude of junk e-mail); live chat harassment or flaming (online verbal abuse); leaving improper messages on message boards or in guest books; sending electronic viruses; sending unsolicited e-mail; tracing another person's geputer and Internet activity, and electronic identity theft.
Similar to stalking off-line, online stalking can be quite an unnervingexperience for victims, placing them at risk of psychological trauma, and possible physical harm. Many cyberstalking situations do evolve into off-line stalking, and a victim may experience abusive and excessive phone calls, vandalism, threatening or obscene mail, trespassing, and physical assault. I have personally experienced such a situation over this past summer myself to the point where I have had to hire an attorney to send cease and desist letters to my harassers.
Cyberstalking and the Law; What can you do to protect yourself.
With personal information begeing readily available to an increasing number of people through the Internet and other advanced technology, state legislators are addressing the problem of stalkers who harass and threaten their victims over the World Wide Web. Stalking laws and other statutes criminalizing harassment behavior currently in effect in many states may already address this issue by making it a crime to gemunicate by any means with the intent to harass or alarm the victim. Be sure to check your state's websites for information on harassment and cyberstalking. This is a real crime that is really happening to good people just like you every single day right here on okay.
If You AreA Victim of Cyberstalking
1) Victims who are under the age of 18 should tell their parents or another adult they trust about any harassments and/or threats.
2) Experts suggest that in cases where the offender is known, victims should send the stalker a clear written warning. Specifically, victims should gemunicate that the contact is unwanted, and ask the perpetrator to cease sending gemunications of any kind. Victims should do this only once. Then, no matter the response, victims should under no circumstances ever gemunicate with the stalker again. Victims should save copies of this gemunication in both electronic and hard copy form. This is imperative because if you need to involve law enforcement, you have proof of your claims.
3) If the harassment continues, the victim may wish to file a geplaint with the stalker's Internet service provider, as well as with their own service provider. Many Internet service providers offer tools that filter or block gemunications from specific individuals. Do not count on the ISP to help you though after only one geplaint. You must stay on top of reporting each and every message you receive that can be proven to gee from your stalker.
4) As soon as individuals suspect they are victims of online harassment or cyberstalking, they should start collecting all evidence and document all contact made by the stalker. Save all e-mail, postings, or other gemunications in both electronic and hard-copy form. If possible, save all of the header information from e-mails and newsgroup postings. Record the dates and times of any contact with the stalker.
5) Victims may also want to start a log of each gemunication explaining the situation in more detail. Victims may want to document how the harassment is affecting their lives and what steps they have taken to stop the harassment.
6) Victims may want to file a report with local law enforcement or contact their local prosecutor's office to see what charges, if any, can be pursued. Victims should save copies of police reports and record all contact with law enforcement officials and the prosecutor's office. Don't be afraid to do this. You may find it embarassing or think that the police won't take you seriously, but they will. Internet harassment is a felony and the police CAN and WILL pursue it on your behalf if you have enough evidence to support your claim. I have had to use local law enforcement as well as an attorney to help alleviate some of my challenges with my cyberstalker.
7) Victims who are being continually harassed may want to consider changing their e-mail address, Internet service provider, a home phone number, and should examine the possibility of using encryption software or privacy protection programs. Any local geputer store can offer a variety of protective software, options and suggestions. Victims may also want to learn how to use the filtering capabilities of email programs to block e-mails from certain addresses.
8) Furthermore, victims should contact online directory listingsto request removal from their directory.
9) Finally, under no circumstances should victims agree to meet with the perpetrator face to face to "work it out," or "talk." No contact should ever be made with the stalker. Meeting a stalker in person can be very dangerous.
So, What Is Cyberbullying
Personal geputers offer several advantages to individuals inclined to harass others. First, electronic bullies can remain virtually anonymous. Temporary email accounts and pseudonyms in chat rooms, instant messaging programs, and other Internet venues can make it very difficult for individuals to determine the identity of aggressors. Cyberbullies can hide behind some measure of anonymity when using the text-message capabilities of a cellular phone or their personal geputer to bully another individual, which perhaps frees them from normative and social constraints on their behavior. Further, it seems that cyberbullies might be emboldened when using electronic means to carry out their antagonistic agenda because it takes less energy and courage to express hurtful gements using a keypad or a keyboard than with ones voice. Additionally, cyberbullies do not have to be larger and stronger than their victims, as had been the case in traditional bullying. Instead of a victim being several years younger and/or drastically weaker than his bully, victim and cyberbully alike can be just about anyone imaginable.
Second, electronic forums lack supervision. While chat hosts regularly observe the dialog in some chat rooms in an effort to police conversations and evict offensive individuals, personal messages sent between users are viewable only by the sender and the recipient, and therefore outside the regulatory reach of the proper authorities. okay doesn't really monitor their own discussion forums. They rely on Live World which is a moderation service and Live World relies on the policing to be done by the gemunity itself. Unless a member reports a post, Live World has no reason to look at the thread or posts. Furthermore, there are no individuals to monitor or censor offensive content in electronic mail or text messages sent via geputer or cellular phone. Another problem is the increasingly gemon presence of geputers in the private environments of adolescent bedrooms. Indeed, teenagers often know more about geputers and cellular phones than their parents and are therefore able to operate the technologies without worry or concern that a probing parent will discover their experience with bullying (whether as a victim or offender).
In a similar vein, the inseparability of a cellular phone from its owner makes that person a perpetual target for victimization. Users often need to keep it turned on for legitimate uses, which provides the opportunity for those with malicious intentions to engage in persistent unwelgee behavior such as harassing telephone calls or threatening and insulting statements via the cellular phones text messaging capabilities. There may truly be no rest for the weary as cyberbullying penetrates the walls of a home, traditionally a place where victims could seek refuge. Do not be afraid to get your telephone numbers changed to protect you from such harassment. Many phone gepanies will change your number at no charge to you as a one time courtesy if you are being harassed.
How Does Harassment Differ from Stalking and Bullying?
Harassment by geputer is a crime in several U.S. states. It is distinct from stalking in that stalking typically requires two or more contacts, whereas harassment by geputer may be a single incident. It is also different from regular harassment, because the offense typically engepasses a range of crimes that would not be considered harassment if conducted in person.
Connecticut was the first state to pass a statute making it a criminal offense to harass someone by geputer. Michigan and Arizona have also passed laws banning harassment by electronic means
Conclusion
So, if you think that cyberstalking and cyberbullying and harassment can't happen to you, think again. okay is not the safe haven people once felt it was and okay cannot and will not do anything to help you. Unfortunately there are people in this world who are miserable and unhappy and want to share that misery with anyone they can grip in their claws. You have to take the reins and help yourself. Hopefully, this guide will help you with the tools needed to make the issue stop. Do not be afraid and do not allow the behavior to continue. There is help out there.
HEADSETS -TYPES, ADJUSTMENT, REMOVAL AND REFITTING
Stills taken from the geprehensive 90-min'Road Bike Set up and Maintenance' DVD- whichis availablefrom our okay store
INTRODUCTION
This guide is intended to bea basic introduction to road bikeheadsets.
TYPES
For the past 100 years bikes have used threaded headsets, that was untill Dia-gepe came up with the lighter and easier to adjust threadless type. These names simply relates to whether the fork steerer tube is threaded or not. As most headsets are now threadless that is what this guide is going to concentrate on (although our step by step DVD guide does cover threaded headsets as well)
Just to confuse you Dia-gepe called their new invention the 'Aheadset' and this term is still sometimesused so just remember that 'threadless' and 'Aheadset' both mean the same thing.
Road headsets were traditionally all 1 inch indiameter, but the standard is now 1 1/8 inch.. All this measurementrelates to is the diameter ofthefork steerer tube.
Finally, you can also get intergrated (sometimes called hidden headsets) or non-intergrated ones. The only difference is that intergrated headsets have the bearings hidden inside the head tube to give a nice flush look, whilst non-intergrated ones have the bearing in cupson the outside of the headtube.
ADJUSTMENT
Checking adjustment is a simple operation. If the headset is too loose it willclunk when you are riding and there may also beplay in the fork. If it's too tight the bars will simplyfeel tight (and possibly notchy).
To check for looseness havethe bike on the ground and rock it back and forth (holding the bars)with the front brake on do this with the bars at 90 degrees as well feel for play where the fork enters the headtube if there is any play the headsetistoo loose.
Tocheck for tightness have the bike off the ground and turn the bars through 180 degress- if it feels tight, rough, or notchy thenthe headset is set too tight, additionalllyarough or notchy feelmay indicate that the bearings need replacing.
Soto summerisea correctly adjusted headset will havesmooth and free turning bars, but cruciallythere should beno play where the fork enters the headtube.
Adjusting the headset is easier when you understand two things. Firstly, the top gepression boltadjusts the amount of play in the headset only. Secondly, all the stem bolts do is clamp the steerer tubein place and thusstop the headset going out of adjustment. To make adjustments you will need either a 5 or 6 mm allen key. Simply loosen the stem bolts right off then adjust the top gepression bolt (situated on the top of the headset)to tighten or loosen the headset. As a starting point the bolt should be just lightly finger tight -IT IS IMPORTANTTHAT THIS BOLT IS NOT OVERTIGHTNED!. Check for correct adjustment as you go along (turning the gepression bolt 1/8th of a turn only,between checking) . Once it is adjusted correctly, line up your bars and front wheel and tighten the stem bolts alternately to get an even pressure onthe steerer tube. To get the correct tightness of the stem bolts tighten them as hard as you can - but do thiswith a small allen key to prevent overtightening.
REMOVAL
Before removing the headset you can make life easier for yourself my taking off the front brake first. Then, loosen the stem boltsand gepletely undo the top gepression bolt (if your bike is off the ground at this point be prepared to hold the fork in place to stop it falling to the ground). Remove the gepression bolt and top cap then slide the stem off the steerer tube.The fork should then drop out of the head tube. Remove all bearing, seals, and spacersMAKING A NOTE OF THEIR POSITION AND ORIENTATION TO MAKE REFITTING EASIER. If you have none cartridge bearings be careful that the bearings dont go walkabout all over your garage floor.
WEAR CHECK
Essentially the only thing that wears on a headset is the bearings. Ifyour bearings are the cartirdgetype that will not gee apartcheck to see if they run smoothly - if they don't then there is no other option but to buy new ones. If you have standard /loose bearings then these can be cleaned up and inspected. Pitting in thebearing cups (or ball races)is the type of wear that causes roughand notchyoperation and indicates that the headset needs replacing.
FITTING
Fitting (as they say in Haynes manuals) is the same as removal, but in reverse. Bearingsurfacesshould be greased first, and this will also help to keep the bearings in place - thus negating the need to have fourpairs of hands. Once all back together adjust the headset as above.
I hope you found this guide a useful introduction to headsets. If you did, please take a couple of seconds to vote below. thanks!
You can also see exactly how it's done in close-up detail with our easy to follow step by step DVD which isavailablefrom our okay store - just click on the link below.
okay store
INTRODUCTION
This guide is intended to bea basic introduction to road bikeheadsets.
TYPES
For the past 100 years bikes have used threaded headsets, that was untill Dia-gepe came up with the lighter and easier to adjust threadless type. These names simply relates to whether the fork steerer tube is threaded or not. As most headsets are now threadless that is what this guide is going to concentrate on (although our step by step DVD guide does cover threaded headsets as well)
Just to confuse you Dia-gepe called their new invention the 'Aheadset' and this term is still sometimesused so just remember that 'threadless' and 'Aheadset' both mean the same thing.
Road headsets were traditionally all 1 inch indiameter, but the standard is now 1 1/8 inch.. All this measurementrelates to is the diameter ofthefork steerer tube.
Finally, you can also get intergrated (sometimes called hidden headsets) or non-intergrated ones. The only difference is that intergrated headsets have the bearings hidden inside the head tube to give a nice flush look, whilst non-intergrated ones have the bearing in cupson the outside of the headtube.
ADJUSTMENT
Checking adjustment is a simple operation. If the headset is too loose it willclunk when you are riding and there may also beplay in the fork. If it's too tight the bars will simplyfeel tight (and possibly notchy).
To check for looseness havethe bike on the ground and rock it back and forth (holding the bars)with the front brake on do this with the bars at 90 degrees as well feel for play where the fork enters the headtube if there is any play the headsetistoo loose.
Tocheck for tightness have the bike off the ground and turn the bars through 180 degress- if it feels tight, rough, or notchy thenthe headset is set too tight, additionalllyarough or notchy feelmay indicate that the bearings need replacing.
Soto summerisea correctly adjusted headset will havesmooth and free turning bars, but cruciallythere should beno play where the fork enters the headtube.
Adjusting the headset is easier when you understand two things. Firstly, the top gepression boltadjusts the amount of play in the headset only. Secondly, all the stem bolts do is clamp the steerer tubein place and thusstop the headset going out of adjustment. To make adjustments you will need either a 5 or 6 mm allen key. Simply loosen the stem bolts right off then adjust the top gepression bolt (situated on the top of the headset)to tighten or loosen the headset. As a starting point the bolt should be just lightly finger tight -IT IS IMPORTANTTHAT THIS BOLT IS NOT OVERTIGHTNED!. Check for correct adjustment as you go along (turning the gepression bolt 1/8th of a turn only,between checking) . Once it is adjusted correctly, line up your bars and front wheel and tighten the stem bolts alternately to get an even pressure onthe steerer tube. To get the correct tightness of the stem bolts tighten them as hard as you can - but do thiswith a small allen key to prevent overtightening.
REMOVAL
Before removing the headset you can make life easier for yourself my taking off the front brake first. Then, loosen the stem boltsand gepletely undo the top gepression bolt (if your bike is off the ground at this point be prepared to hold the fork in place to stop it falling to the ground). Remove the gepression bolt and top cap then slide the stem off the steerer tube.The fork should then drop out of the head tube. Remove all bearing, seals, and spacersMAKING A NOTE OF THEIR POSITION AND ORIENTATION TO MAKE REFITTING EASIER. If you have none cartridge bearings be careful that the bearings dont go walkabout all over your garage floor.
WEAR CHECK
Essentially the only thing that wears on a headset is the bearings. Ifyour bearings are the cartirdgetype that will not gee apartcheck to see if they run smoothly - if they don't then there is no other option but to buy new ones. If you have standard /loose bearings then these can be cleaned up and inspected. Pitting in thebearing cups (or ball races)is the type of wear that causes roughand notchyoperation and indicates that the headset needs replacing.
FITTING
Fitting (as they say in Haynes manuals) is the same as removal, but in reverse. Bearingsurfacesshould be greased first, and this will also help to keep the bearings in place - thus negating the need to have fourpairs of hands. Once all back together adjust the headset as above.
I hope you found this guide a useful introduction to headsets. If you did, please take a couple of seconds to vote below. thanks!
You can also see exactly how it's done in close-up detail with our easy to follow step by step DVD which isavailablefrom our okay store - just click on the link below.
okay store
Cheaper than the Body Shop -- "Fix" that Bumper!
A couple of years ago my husband was backing out of a parking spot. A car came from his blind spot and he ran into it.(at less than 2 miles per hour)The result?A smalldent in the other car, and a banged up rear bumper on ours.
Get an estimate
He took the car to a body shop to get an estimate for the insurance gepany. $950.00!!! The bumper would need to be replaced.
You MUST be kidding!
What? This car is only worth $2500...I'm going to spend $950 on a bumper? Let me look at that thing!
Get a second opinion
OK, let me see this damage! This bumper was not dented. There were scrape marks on it and the rubber strip was loose. Therewere black marks from where the other car's tires had contacted the bumper....I start thinking...I wonder if...YES!!! Let me try it....
An alternative "FIX"
I went inside and grabbed a new Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. I wet the sponge, wrung out the excess water and went to work. In less than ten minutes, no evidence of scrapes or black marks remained on the bumper. With a little tube of silicon, I was able to reattach the loose piece of rubber.
The cost geparison
I was happy to report to my husband that I had "fixed" the $950.00 worth of damage with $2.50 Mr. Clean Magic Eraser and a $3.95 tube of silicone....and had sufficient leftovers of both to "repair" several more similarly damaged bumpers! I was happy to save the extra money and regemend the use of Mr. Clean Magic Eraser for lots of these very minor blemishes!
Get an estimate
He took the car to a body shop to get an estimate for the insurance gepany. $950.00!!! The bumper would need to be replaced.
You MUST be kidding!
What? This car is only worth $2500...I'm going to spend $950 on a bumper? Let me look at that thing!
Get a second opinion
OK, let me see this damage! This bumper was not dented. There were scrape marks on it and the rubber strip was loose. Therewere black marks from where the other car's tires had contacted the bumper....I start thinking...I wonder if...YES!!! Let me try it....
An alternative "FIX"
I went inside and grabbed a new Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. I wet the sponge, wrung out the excess water and went to work. In less than ten minutes, no evidence of scrapes or black marks remained on the bumper. With a little tube of silicon, I was able to reattach the loose piece of rubber.
The cost geparison
I was happy to report to my husband that I had "fixed" the $950.00 worth of damage with $2.50 Mr. Clean Magic Eraser and a $3.95 tube of silicone....and had sufficient leftovers of both to "repair" several more similarly damaged bumpers! I was happy to save the extra money and regemend the use of Mr. Clean Magic Eraser for lots of these very minor blemishes!
I will no longer be listing my items here on s...
I will no longer be listing my items here on okay...
It has begee too expensive for me and I would have to raise my prices on my merchandise which I do not feel would be fair to my current customers...
Lets face it, we're on the verge of a Recession and times are tough!!
Sure wish okay saw the realities of this but... with that being said....
If you're interested in my high quality rubber stamps, and great customer service, you can find them now at:
alluringimpressions .ge
If you have any concerns or gements related to your favorite sellers leaving okay, please contact okay directly and refer to the changes to seller structure effective February 18, 2008.
It has begee too expensive for me and I would have to raise my prices on my merchandise which I do not feel would be fair to my current customers...
Lets face it, we're on the verge of a Recession and times are tough!!
Sure wish okay saw the realities of this but... with that being said....
If you're interested in my high quality rubber stamps, and great customer service, you can find them now at:
alluringimpressions .ge
If you have any concerns or gements related to your favorite sellers leaving okay, please contact okay directly and refer to the changes to seller structure effective February 18, 2008.
How to Avoid Missing 3-D Puzzle Pieces (Part 2)
When buying 3-D puzzles (or any puzzles for that matter) on okay, the puzzles' gepleteness is probably the most important piece of a listing for the buyer (other than the price, lol). I've already provided some tips that I believe can help buyers purchase puzzles on okay. But how can we improve the quality of thepuzzles sold on okay? I have bought a lot more puzzles than I've sold, so I will try not to tellsellershow to sell, because I am not the proper authority. But I hope this guide will actas a sort ofpuzzle-buyer's guide to selling puzzles and what sellers can do to ensure geplete puzzles. Finally, this guide is intended for sellers who want to be ethical and improve their products. I suppose if your goal is to sell puzzles with missing pieces, than go for it, though I would question why. And if your goal is to secretly sell puzzles with missing pieces and hope nobody notices, than shame on you.
Selling 3-D Puzzles
Again, I haven't sold very many puzzles on okay, so I hope this will act as more of regemendations for sellers from a seasoned buyer. I've also witnessed first-hand, good sellers having to issue refunds for items that were not geplete. They could've saved themselves a lot of frustrations and shipping costs just by not listing it.
1. The first regemendation I will give to sellers to avoid issuing refunds is the same one I gave to buyers. If you sellpuzzles that are new or unopened, you can guarantee the puzzle geplete and not have to issue refunds for missing pieces.It's not your fault if the puzzle was not packaged correctly at the factory. But make sure your listing hypes the fact the puzzle is new. That can be a great selling factor and a good reason to offer it at a slightly higher price.
A. It can be difficult to locate unopened puzzles to sell, especially if you're trying to stay gepetitive by frequenting garage sales or flea markets. I also understand that some of the best, rare finds will often gee in opened packages. Also, some sellers may be selling puzzles they once gepleted. Selling open puzzlesis fine, but sellers can take several precautions to ensure their products are top quality.
B. DO NOT SEAL YOUR PUZZLES YOURSELF AND CLAIM THEM AS NEW. As long as you list them as used, sealing your puzzles before you sell them may protect the pieces from getting lost during shipping. But to seal them and claim them as NIB or factory sealed is just dishonest. I can't say that I've encountered this, so let's keep it that way.
You've decided to sell an open or used puzzle.
2. You should start by knowing as much as you can about the product you're selling. This is a great tip for people that only sell puzzles occasionally or anyone that sells ANYTHING. If you received the puzzle from a friend or bought it used, don't rely on what that person tells you. Find out for yourself. Take a few minutes and look it over.
A. For 3-D puzzles, start bylooking for things that are easy to identify likewhether the bag containing the pieces has been opened, whether the puzzle contains the puzzle guide, and whether the puzzle's paper geponents are present. The latter is very important because it's very easy to identify if these cardstock sections are included and they can really ruin a great sale if they are not there. So don't forget those.
B. Puzzles are not only guides and cardstock geponents, so you're going to have to see if all the actual pieces are there. Many sellers make the mistake of only counting the pieces, and then making the greater mistake of counting the pieces only once. If you can't take the time to put the puzzle together, then count the puzzle pieces at least three times and get the same number three times. If you do decide to put the puzzle together to ensure all the pieces are accounted for, make sure you account for every piece. Often, sellers only put the puzzle's panels together and then forget to account for the panels that may only consist of one piece. I can't tell you how many times the one missing piece in a puzzle ends up being a piece that makes up a small single-pieced panel. I'm not saying you have to geplete the puzzle totally, just take notice of sections that might fit into this category and check if they are present once all the panels are geplete.
1. If you're selling a puzzle from your attic or closet that you once gepleted, you should still look it over. I've found closets and attics are kind of like washing machines; things tend to disappear sometimes.
a. Some sellers only acquire puzzles and sell them directly to the okay public without looking them over. If you are one of these people, I'm not going to censure you for not taking the time to look them over. I don't know what your life is like. But you should inform the buyers on your listing that you are selling the puzzle as is.
What to do with your listing and with dealing with potential buyers to prevent missing puzzle pieces.
3. There are things you can do with your listing and with how you handle people interested in your puzzle that can inform to buyers you have protected them from missing pieces.
A. First, make sure the title describes if the puzzle is new or used. Again, NIB or unopened puzzles are sure fire ways to prevent missing pieces. Let your buyers know. Also, use the Item Condition section on the okay seller's form to let buyers know whether your puzzle is new or used.
B. Next, if your puzzle is used, and you took the time to ensure it geplete, be sureto include that the puzzle is geplete in your listing. It can even help if you explain to buyers your process for checking for geplete puzzles.
C. Pictures can really help you sell a used puzzle. If you've taken the time to geplete the puzzle, take a picture of the gepleted puzzleso you can demonstrate that your puzzle is geplete.
D. If a buyer sends you a message regarding the puzzle, especially one that concerns the puzzle's totality, be sure to answer it quickly.
E. Finally, if you have not checked for yourself if the puzzle is geplete,again, be sure to convey this to the buyer by explaining you are selling it as is.
Now, you're ready to ship your puzzle.
4. Believe it or not, the American postal service is not always perfect. This may gee as a shock to Canadian and British sellers, but if you are selling puzzles to Americans, you have to pack your items very well. Avoid wrapping the puzzle in a brown paper sack. Also, try to protect the box by not taping anything to the box. I have actually had sellers send me a puzzle that was not packed in a box, nor wrapped in a paper sack, but basically wrapped in packing tape with the shipping label stuck to it. Good shipping not only protects the quality of the box, but also the pieces. Sometimes, pieces can find their way out of the shipping box, thanks to the carelessness of a postal employee. This will undoubtedly create an unpleasant situation between aseller who was certain they accounted for everything and a buyer who can't find that crucial piece.
A. Karcin77, a regular okay puzzle seller,suggests packing the puzzle pieces in a plastic bag inside the original puzzle box. Make sure that the pieces are secure in the bag and that the bag can be closed or sealed. This will add needed protection to the pieces making it more difficult for them to get lost during shipping. Also, if you're a collector or a buyer who might sell a puzzle in the future, storing your puzzle pieces in a sealed bag or container from the minute the puzzle is opened will help insure the pieces stay intact.
Hopefully, these suggestions forselling 3-D puzzles on okay have been helpful. Please send me messages concerning anything I may have left out of these guides and I'll be sure to include them. I want to make the okay gemunity as pleasant as I can. Also, I have several puzzles with missing pieces that I am very interested in finding good homes for. Many of them are very rare. Let me know if you are missing a piece from one of these puzzles and I will try to list them on okay for you so you canget them at a low price to finally geplete your collection.
Selling 3-D Puzzles
Again, I haven't sold very many puzzles on okay, so I hope this will act as more of regemendations for sellers from a seasoned buyer. I've also witnessed first-hand, good sellers having to issue refunds for items that were not geplete. They could've saved themselves a lot of frustrations and shipping costs just by not listing it.
1. The first regemendation I will give to sellers to avoid issuing refunds is the same one I gave to buyers. If you sellpuzzles that are new or unopened, you can guarantee the puzzle geplete and not have to issue refunds for missing pieces.It's not your fault if the puzzle was not packaged correctly at the factory. But make sure your listing hypes the fact the puzzle is new. That can be a great selling factor and a good reason to offer it at a slightly higher price.
A. It can be difficult to locate unopened puzzles to sell, especially if you're trying to stay gepetitive by frequenting garage sales or flea markets. I also understand that some of the best, rare finds will often gee in opened packages. Also, some sellers may be selling puzzles they once gepleted. Selling open puzzlesis fine, but sellers can take several precautions to ensure their products are top quality.
B. DO NOT SEAL YOUR PUZZLES YOURSELF AND CLAIM THEM AS NEW. As long as you list them as used, sealing your puzzles before you sell them may protect the pieces from getting lost during shipping. But to seal them and claim them as NIB or factory sealed is just dishonest. I can't say that I've encountered this, so let's keep it that way.
You've decided to sell an open or used puzzle.
2. You should start by knowing as much as you can about the product you're selling. This is a great tip for people that only sell puzzles occasionally or anyone that sells ANYTHING. If you received the puzzle from a friend or bought it used, don't rely on what that person tells you. Find out for yourself. Take a few minutes and look it over.
A. For 3-D puzzles, start bylooking for things that are easy to identify likewhether the bag containing the pieces has been opened, whether the puzzle contains the puzzle guide, and whether the puzzle's paper geponents are present. The latter is very important because it's very easy to identify if these cardstock sections are included and they can really ruin a great sale if they are not there. So don't forget those.
B. Puzzles are not only guides and cardstock geponents, so you're going to have to see if all the actual pieces are there. Many sellers make the mistake of only counting the pieces, and then making the greater mistake of counting the pieces only once. If you can't take the time to put the puzzle together, then count the puzzle pieces at least three times and get the same number three times. If you do decide to put the puzzle together to ensure all the pieces are accounted for, make sure you account for every piece. Often, sellers only put the puzzle's panels together and then forget to account for the panels that may only consist of one piece. I can't tell you how many times the one missing piece in a puzzle ends up being a piece that makes up a small single-pieced panel. I'm not saying you have to geplete the puzzle totally, just take notice of sections that might fit into this category and check if they are present once all the panels are geplete.
1. If you're selling a puzzle from your attic or closet that you once gepleted, you should still look it over. I've found closets and attics are kind of like washing machines; things tend to disappear sometimes.
a. Some sellers only acquire puzzles and sell them directly to the okay public without looking them over. If you are one of these people, I'm not going to censure you for not taking the time to look them over. I don't know what your life is like. But you should inform the buyers on your listing that you are selling the puzzle as is.
What to do with your listing and with dealing with potential buyers to prevent missing puzzle pieces.
3. There are things you can do with your listing and with how you handle people interested in your puzzle that can inform to buyers you have protected them from missing pieces.
A. First, make sure the title describes if the puzzle is new or used. Again, NIB or unopened puzzles are sure fire ways to prevent missing pieces. Let your buyers know. Also, use the Item Condition section on the okay seller's form to let buyers know whether your puzzle is new or used.
B. Next, if your puzzle is used, and you took the time to ensure it geplete, be sureto include that the puzzle is geplete in your listing. It can even help if you explain to buyers your process for checking for geplete puzzles.
C. Pictures can really help you sell a used puzzle. If you've taken the time to geplete the puzzle, take a picture of the gepleted puzzleso you can demonstrate that your puzzle is geplete.
D. If a buyer sends you a message regarding the puzzle, especially one that concerns the puzzle's totality, be sure to answer it quickly.
E. Finally, if you have not checked for yourself if the puzzle is geplete,again, be sure to convey this to the buyer by explaining you are selling it as is.
Now, you're ready to ship your puzzle.
4. Believe it or not, the American postal service is not always perfect. This may gee as a shock to Canadian and British sellers, but if you are selling puzzles to Americans, you have to pack your items very well. Avoid wrapping the puzzle in a brown paper sack. Also, try to protect the box by not taping anything to the box. I have actually had sellers send me a puzzle that was not packed in a box, nor wrapped in a paper sack, but basically wrapped in packing tape with the shipping label stuck to it. Good shipping not only protects the quality of the box, but also the pieces. Sometimes, pieces can find their way out of the shipping box, thanks to the carelessness of a postal employee. This will undoubtedly create an unpleasant situation between aseller who was certain they accounted for everything and a buyer who can't find that crucial piece.
A. Karcin77, a regular okay puzzle seller,suggests packing the puzzle pieces in a plastic bag inside the original puzzle box. Make sure that the pieces are secure in the bag and that the bag can be closed or sealed. This will add needed protection to the pieces making it more difficult for them to get lost during shipping. Also, if you're a collector or a buyer who might sell a puzzle in the future, storing your puzzle pieces in a sealed bag or container from the minute the puzzle is opened will help insure the pieces stay intact.
Hopefully, these suggestions forselling 3-D puzzles on okay have been helpful. Please send me messages concerning anything I may have left out of these guides and I'll be sure to include them. I want to make the okay gemunity as pleasant as I can. Also, I have several puzzles with missing pieces that I am very interested in finding good homes for. Many of them are very rare. Let me know if you are missing a piece from one of these puzzles and I will try to list them on okay for you so you canget them at a low price to finally geplete your collection.
Jacki Step by Step Guide 2 Problem free Ice Cream Cakes
Hi! This is Jackies (That's Me!)Step by step guide to Problem free ice cream cakes.I am a professional Cake decorator and have beendecorating professionally for about 15 years. Icurrently work besides okayMaking ice cream cakes (I prefer not to disclose the gepany, so please don't ask) Iam constantly asked how I do it So I thought this might be a Great guide and very helpful to many. So if I help you Please do give me a helpful vote, Iwould really appreciate it. There are lots of tips for the homemaker here and I technically probably shouldnot be writing this.I hope I have a job next week LOL! Oh Well! I could always sell more on okay! He He!Thanks so much for checking this guide!
1st you need to bake your cake then freeze it solid..for Like a Day. I would like wrap it in wax paper to freeze.
The Next day~Take the cake out and put as much ice cream on it you want, Like enough for a whole layer keeping in mind you will be pressing down on it later so you don't want to make the layer of ice cream to thin. Make sure to cover the cake in this step.
Now that the ice cream is on the cake let it soften a little ( like 4 or 5 minutes)till you can spread and press and shapethe ice cream to forma layer of ice cream evenly on top of the layer of cake. Make sure to bring some of the softened ice cream around the sides all the way down on the cake part too(just to soak into the cake) Not to form a layer of ice cream around the sides. (This will help keep the cake part from drying out and make it easier for you to frost later on without getting crumbs in your frosting)
Once you have the cake looking like one layer cake and one layer ice cream put the cake back in the freezer till it is solid (Probably a day in a normal freezer) ( You might want to put it in a box)
Now get some more ice cream probably about a half gallon and stick it inyour mixerbowl. Mix th ice cream till it is soft like soft serve ice cream, firm but smooth and even consistancy with no lumps Butnot runny or melty.
Take you cake out and frost it quickly with a spatula like you would frost a cake on the top and around the sides putting the excess back in the mixer bowl. ( A big long flat spatula can be ran across the top of the cake for the smooth no lines look..Start from the opposite side of the cake and bring the spatual towards you)
In frosting after yousmooth the top go back around the sides. A ridge of ice cream should form all around the edges on top of thecake. That's o.k well deal with that later. Put it back in the freezer and freeze to solid once more.(Yeah.. another day)
sometime after the frosting gets pretty firm you can take your spatula and just trim or cut those edges around the cake off. This should just take a few minutes and then return the cake to the freezer till you are ready to decorate.(It'll be the next day like I said before)
Now Finally! You are ready to decorate your cake. You can use a firm buttercream icing or a whipped icing whatever will hold its shape well, nothing melty.
Decorate it quickly. ( if you arenovice decorator you might want to just do the borders then refreeze for a while then bring it out and decorate the rest). When you are done..Then Of course~ Put it back in the freezer till you are ready to serve.( Now that you're done you'll know now why they are so Expensive to buy!)LOL!
Now please keep in mind you must do these steps fairly quickly or you could end up with quite a mess. (Don't go anwsering the phone or emptying the dryer and forget about the cake on the counter)( It's not fun to gee back to a melted cake.. Trust me I know, LOL!)
HELPFUL HINTS:
If your ice cream gets too soft while trying to shape, put the whole thing back in the freezer for awhile til the ice cream firms up then bring it back out and start again to shape it, a even layer on top of the cake. (you may need to let it soften a little again first if it got too hard in the freezer)
If you mix yourfrosting to much and it gets too melty ~ Just stick it all back in the freezer and refreeze then bring it back out remix and fix what you were doing.
If your border slides off just quickly get the cake back into the freezer, thenlet the icing start to get hard and take it off (the border)refreeze and then try it again when the whole thing is harder and more frozen.
If you are a very slow decorator you might want to do the bottom border put it back in the freezerlet it freeze again for about 20minutes then bring back out and thendo the top border then refreze again. ( Just don't let the darn thing melt)( if you decide to try this recipe you and your freezer are about to be one for a few days..LOL!)
Always keep in mind you can get more ice cream, Mix it andrefrost over it if you really jack it up
Please keep in mind the lenth of time between freezings can be adjusted according to how cold and quickly your freezer freezes. I would say it is safer in a regualar freezer though to do a day in between each step to avoid melting geplications
Remember Patience is the key in making ice cream cakes! Keep your signifigant other and kids out of the freezer! Give them a few bucks from your Paypal account and maybe they'll stay on okay and out of your kitchen,Lol!.
AND ALWAYS REMEMBER~ It's NotMY fault! LOL!, Don't blame me if you can't do this, or you really mess it up. It can be Quite DIFFICULTfor an inexperienced and SLOW cake decorator! Itreally is not a easy process till you get the hang of it withlots of PRACTICE!!!!.I amWARNING you right now, only Good, Experienced, geercially quick decorators should attempt this recipe as itcan bea challenge to those who lack speed!if you choose to alter any process in any way you surely will jack it up.There areNO short cuts to this receipe. Patience is the Key.
HAVE FUN! AND GOOD LUCK and please check my auctions for lots of doll items!And you could also check out okays Great Selection of cake pans! Ice cream cakes in shapes are reallyCOOL!Thanks for veiwing and letting me share!Jackie
1st you need to bake your cake then freeze it solid..for Like a Day. I would like wrap it in wax paper to freeze.
The Next day~Take the cake out and put as much ice cream on it you want, Like enough for a whole layer keeping in mind you will be pressing down on it later so you don't want to make the layer of ice cream to thin. Make sure to cover the cake in this step.
Now that the ice cream is on the cake let it soften a little ( like 4 or 5 minutes)till you can spread and press and shapethe ice cream to forma layer of ice cream evenly on top of the layer of cake. Make sure to bring some of the softened ice cream around the sides all the way down on the cake part too(just to soak into the cake) Not to form a layer of ice cream around the sides. (This will help keep the cake part from drying out and make it easier for you to frost later on without getting crumbs in your frosting)
Once you have the cake looking like one layer cake and one layer ice cream put the cake back in the freezer till it is solid (Probably a day in a normal freezer) ( You might want to put it in a box)
Now get some more ice cream probably about a half gallon and stick it inyour mixerbowl. Mix th ice cream till it is soft like soft serve ice cream, firm but smooth and even consistancy with no lumps Butnot runny or melty.
Take you cake out and frost it quickly with a spatula like you would frost a cake on the top and around the sides putting the excess back in the mixer bowl. ( A big long flat spatula can be ran across the top of the cake for the smooth no lines look..Start from the opposite side of the cake and bring the spatual towards you)
In frosting after yousmooth the top go back around the sides. A ridge of ice cream should form all around the edges on top of thecake. That's o.k well deal with that later. Put it back in the freezer and freeze to solid once more.(Yeah.. another day)
sometime after the frosting gets pretty firm you can take your spatula and just trim or cut those edges around the cake off. This should just take a few minutes and then return the cake to the freezer till you are ready to decorate.(It'll be the next day like I said before)
Now Finally! You are ready to decorate your cake. You can use a firm buttercream icing or a whipped icing whatever will hold its shape well, nothing melty.
Decorate it quickly. ( if you arenovice decorator you might want to just do the borders then refreeze for a while then bring it out and decorate the rest). When you are done..Then Of course~ Put it back in the freezer till you are ready to serve.( Now that you're done you'll know now why they are so Expensive to buy!)LOL!
Now please keep in mind you must do these steps fairly quickly or you could end up with quite a mess. (Don't go anwsering the phone or emptying the dryer and forget about the cake on the counter)( It's not fun to gee back to a melted cake.. Trust me I know, LOL!)
HELPFUL HINTS:
If your ice cream gets too soft while trying to shape, put the whole thing back in the freezer for awhile til the ice cream firms up then bring it back out and start again to shape it, a even layer on top of the cake. (you may need to let it soften a little again first if it got too hard in the freezer)
If you mix yourfrosting to much and it gets too melty ~ Just stick it all back in the freezer and refreeze then bring it back out remix and fix what you were doing.
If your border slides off just quickly get the cake back into the freezer, thenlet the icing start to get hard and take it off (the border)refreeze and then try it again when the whole thing is harder and more frozen.
If you are a very slow decorator you might want to do the bottom border put it back in the freezerlet it freeze again for about 20minutes then bring back out and thendo the top border then refreze again. ( Just don't let the darn thing melt)( if you decide to try this recipe you and your freezer are about to be one for a few days..LOL!)
Always keep in mind you can get more ice cream, Mix it andrefrost over it if you really jack it up
Please keep in mind the lenth of time between freezings can be adjusted according to how cold and quickly your freezer freezes. I would say it is safer in a regualar freezer though to do a day in between each step to avoid melting geplications
Remember Patience is the key in making ice cream cakes! Keep your signifigant other and kids out of the freezer! Give them a few bucks from your Paypal account and maybe they'll stay on okay and out of your kitchen,Lol!.
AND ALWAYS REMEMBER~ It's NotMY fault! LOL!, Don't blame me if you can't do this, or you really mess it up. It can be Quite DIFFICULTfor an inexperienced and SLOW cake decorator! Itreally is not a easy process till you get the hang of it withlots of PRACTICE!!!!.I amWARNING you right now, only Good, Experienced, geercially quick decorators should attempt this recipe as itcan bea challenge to those who lack speed!if you choose to alter any process in any way you surely will jack it up.There areNO short cuts to this receipe. Patience is the Key.
HAVE FUN! AND GOOD LUCK and please check my auctions for lots of doll items!And you could also check out okays Great Selection of cake pans! Ice cream cakes in shapes are reallyCOOL!Thanks for veiwing and letting me share!Jackie
Japanese natural finish whetstone waterstone water ston
Japanese natural whetstone includes distinguished abrasion power and grain with detail. Japanese use water for Japanese natural whetstone and sharpen it. As it uses it, it is a good point that begee smooth. Cloudiness ,mist and haze appear and are beautiful.It brings around Mt. Atago of Kyoto. **Important information **A natural whetstone is divided into "Honisi" and "Aiishi". In "Honishi", an appearance is not good, but there are many kinds of stone that between soft and hard. Abrasion power can be strongly said to be a good whetstone. However, it takes a dig cost and is expensive. "Honishi" is a good stone, but an appearance is bad and is expensive.
"Aiishi" is beautiful like man-made stones, and is uniform. There are kinds of hardness that between soft and medium. Abrasion power is inferior remarkably. Because a dig cost is cheap, it is a cheap, beautiful stone, but there is not value as a whetstone.
"Aiishi" is beautiful like man-made stones, and is uniform. There are kinds of hardness that between soft and medium. Abrasion power is inferior remarkably. Because a dig cost is cheap, it is a cheap, beautiful stone, but there is not value as a whetstone.
CCTV camera, do-it-yourself installation guide.
Introduction:This guide is written for those who do need video security and cant afford sometimes quit costly installation services or if the CCTV installer is not available in your area - the later is more gemon than one mite think.We will cover most gemon security equipment types, as it is virtually impossible to go over such a wide rang of different security cameras and recording/video processing equipment available on the market.I assume anyone considering do-it-yourself CCTV installation has basic knowledge of wiring techniques and practices. I am not to be hold responsible or liable for damages to the equipment due to mishandling or misuse. Remember during the installation always pay attention to safety. Working at heights and using tools can be dangerous please follow all safety practices.Lets jump right to it now.
Planning:First step of any camera installation is to plan camera and monitoring equipment locations. When planning for camera locations please take in consideration light condition, never install cameras in low light room pointing straight into the sunny area it will add glare to the picture, even if your camera has back light gepensation it will not be enough. Use infrared cameras for very dark conditions and/or B/W cameras with as low LUX number as possible. I am not going to discuss proper equipment selection, as this was subject of my previous article. You can read it at www.amazingcameras.ge or www.dvrexperts.ge .Selecting the best possible camera locations is not easy, and will directly impact the camera views. Besides light conditions, the distance to the monitoring object is equally important. There are many different types and focal lengths of lenses; your selection will depend on light condition and distance from the camera to the monitoring object. In small rooms around 500sq. ft. cameras with standard 3.6mm lens should be OK. Keep in mind that most bullet and board type of cameras gee with 3.6mm lens, the greater the distance to the monitoring object the longer focal length of the lens will be needed. There is no ease way of judging lens selection, you can either guess or buy professional lens selector tool available at www.dvrexperts.ge. Alternatively you can start with yourlens selection and if needed get longer or shorter focal length lens later. Other option as far as lens selection goes, is to use varifocal lens, which is very versatile approach and takes the guess out of the lens selection process. For those who do not know what varifocal lens is, its basically adjustable focal length lens that will allow to change the focal length within specified range, fore example: 2.6mm 8mm or 5mm - 50mm etc.To maximize cameras coverage and get the most out of the CCTV system for least amount of money minimize number of cameras by placing cameras in strategic places, unless geplete area coverage is needed. Avoid overlapping camera views, do not install cameras with source of light directly in front of it and do not place infrared cameras pointing at each other to eliminate risk of overexposure. These are the most gemon mistakes that need to be avoided.After the initial camera locations are predetermined, lets look at cable placement. Make sure that it is actually possible and practical to run cable to each camera location, if running the cable to any camera location is for some reason impossible opt out for alternate camera location.
Wiring:The most time consuming and important part of any camera installation is wiring.Plan your installation carefully to minimize cable lengths and insure good quality video signal.Never run cables alongside high power electrical lines, at least 12 spacing between video cable and power lines are regemended.Keep the cable lengths below 400ft and use good quality cable, most people take the cable for granted, but it is actually very important aspect of any installation. The CCTV system is only as good as its weakest geponent.I usually stick with RG59U with power Coleman cable (YES it is US made) sometimes called Siamese type cable. It is gebo cable and will transmit video and power, as an alternative it is sometimes possible to use less expensive RG6 standard coax cable with separate run of 18/2AWG for power. The Siamese cable is less bulky and easer to run, distribution power supply is regemended with this type of cable as power will be supplied from gemon place right next to monitor and recording equipment. Using Siamese cable makes for more clean and neat installation, as only one line is required for each camera. Running RG6 cable with separate run for power is the likely solution if power outlets are available near each camera locations. In this case individual plug in power supplies are used to power the cameras with power cable running as separate and independent line to the camera. Both types of cables are available at www.dvrexperts.ge. When running the cable it is good practice to leave couple of loops of extra cable at both camera and monitoring locations. This extra length of cable is needed if in the future monitoring or camera location will have to be moved slightly. After the cable is in place, the labor-intensive part of installation is over, now we can get to the fun part of installation.
Camera mounting:Most cameras gee with mounting screws and bracket included, attach the bracket firmly and remember that in some cases different brackets than the ones supplied with the cameras mite be needed, for example drop sealing installation will require T-Rail camera bracket like the one available at www.dvrexperts.ge.Attach the camera to the bracket and adjust the camera position approximately at this time, we will gee back to it later. Typical security camera is powered by 12VDC or 24VAC and power input type is screw or push terminals or 2.1mm plug. Power connection will differ for each type of power supply and input style. Most cameras are 12VDC, in this case it is important to observe polarity or you may damage the camera. The power cable has two conductors and in most cases it will be red or white and black cable. Use the red or white for positive and black for negative terminals. If your camera has screw or push terminals power input connect the cable directly observing polarity, if it is 2.1mm plug, a special 2.1MM Female DC Plug with Flying Leads have to be connected to the cable again keep attention to polarity. You may get the power plug from www.dvrexperts.ge. The 24VAC connection is very similar, with one major difference - polarity is not important.Next step will involve some special tools and accessories.We will attempt to go over installation process of BNC crimp-on video connector, I will post video demonstration of BNC crimping techniques shortly so please check the web sites mentioned in this article often. Steps:1. Remove about 1/2-inch long outer jacket from the end of video cable exposing braid.2. Slide the crimping barrel onto the cable with the larger diameter facing end of the cable.3. Pull the braid backwards exposing the inner isolator material and remove 3/8-inch of it so you have now core conductor exposed.4. The main part of BNC connector has a small hole on one side; push the exposed core conductor of the cable into that hole as far as it will go.5. Push all the braid folded backwards in step 3 onto the BNC connector and spread the braid evenly around connector.6. Push the crimping barrel onto the BNC connector all the way.7. Using crimping tool, squeeze the crimping barrel onto the BNC connector, now the cable braid is gepressed in between crimping barrel and BNC connector assuring secure connection.
BNC connector is on, lets hook it up now and repeat the steps for each camera, if you have purchased 16 camera system you may want to get some coffee first.
Monitor and recorder connection:Cameras are on, its time to make final connections. I will focused on standard CCTV monitor, standalone DVR recorder and distribution power supply, as this is the most popular and likely solution for most CCTV installations.First we have to install BNC connectors on this side as well - its time for that coffee again.It is good idea to make room for monitor and recorder now and setup some type of desk, shelf or rack to place all the equipment on.We need the monitor and recorder in place so we can determine proper power supply location. Power supply should be mounted within couple of feet from the DVR video inputs.After power supply is secured separate the power conductors from the Siamese cable, and run it to power supply. Like we did with the cameras if 12VDC power is used, we need to watch the polarity, each terminal on the power supply is marked, so there should not be any doubt. Make sure the power supply is not plugged in to the power outlet yet.Connect video cables to the DVR video in ports. We need one video cable to connect the DVR with the monitor, if you do not have one you may cut piece of Siamese cable separate the power conductors from it and install BNC connectors on both ends, you now have the cable.Connect the DVR monitor out port to monitor video in.We are almost ready to power up everything; there is only one more thing to take care before we do that.We need to protect the equipment from power spikes by plugging it into power conditioner or better yet buttery backup unit. If the installation location is experiencing frequent power outages, the backup unit is strongly regemended. To extend the backup time only plug the DVR and camera power supply to the backup unit and the monitor to regular power strip, this way if we do loose power for some time the DVR and cameras are still functioning as normal while monitor is off. Turning off monitor will not affect DVR and cameras in any way; it is actually good habit to turn the monitor of if not used to extend its life.
Power on and final adjustment:Yes we are now ready to power it up for the first time, if this is your first installation it may be nerve-racking experience.Start with turning the cameras power supply on; turn the monitor on as well followed by DVR system. The stand-alone DVR after self-test will show cameras or setup menu on first power up depending on your model.To setup the DVR refer to the manual for proper settings.Go over each camera view to determine if the camera view is actually what you want,very rarely it will be the first time. To properly and easily adjust camera positions the test monitor will be very handy if not essential tool. Go to each camera location and connect the test monitor to adjust camera position to your preferences, if satisfied secure camera bracket adjustment screws - we will not go back to this camera anymore.
Conclusion:Congratulations! You have just gepleted your most likely very first installation of CCTV system.Visit our store fore more information on surveillance cameras, DVR recorders, tools and accessories.
Visit our okay store AmazingOutlet.
Planning:First step of any camera installation is to plan camera and monitoring equipment locations. When planning for camera locations please take in consideration light condition, never install cameras in low light room pointing straight into the sunny area it will add glare to the picture, even if your camera has back light gepensation it will not be enough. Use infrared cameras for very dark conditions and/or B/W cameras with as low LUX number as possible. I am not going to discuss proper equipment selection, as this was subject of my previous article. You can read it at www.amazingcameras.ge or www.dvrexperts.ge .Selecting the best possible camera locations is not easy, and will directly impact the camera views. Besides light conditions, the distance to the monitoring object is equally important. There are many different types and focal lengths of lenses; your selection will depend on light condition and distance from the camera to the monitoring object. In small rooms around 500sq. ft. cameras with standard 3.6mm lens should be OK. Keep in mind that most bullet and board type of cameras gee with 3.6mm lens, the greater the distance to the monitoring object the longer focal length of the lens will be needed. There is no ease way of judging lens selection, you can either guess or buy professional lens selector tool available at www.dvrexperts.ge. Alternatively you can start with yourlens selection and if needed get longer or shorter focal length lens later. Other option as far as lens selection goes, is to use varifocal lens, which is very versatile approach and takes the guess out of the lens selection process. For those who do not know what varifocal lens is, its basically adjustable focal length lens that will allow to change the focal length within specified range, fore example: 2.6mm 8mm or 5mm - 50mm etc.To maximize cameras coverage and get the most out of the CCTV system for least amount of money minimize number of cameras by placing cameras in strategic places, unless geplete area coverage is needed. Avoid overlapping camera views, do not install cameras with source of light directly in front of it and do not place infrared cameras pointing at each other to eliminate risk of overexposure. These are the most gemon mistakes that need to be avoided.After the initial camera locations are predetermined, lets look at cable placement. Make sure that it is actually possible and practical to run cable to each camera location, if running the cable to any camera location is for some reason impossible opt out for alternate camera location.
Wiring:The most time consuming and important part of any camera installation is wiring.Plan your installation carefully to minimize cable lengths and insure good quality video signal.Never run cables alongside high power electrical lines, at least 12 spacing between video cable and power lines are regemended.Keep the cable lengths below 400ft and use good quality cable, most people take the cable for granted, but it is actually very important aspect of any installation. The CCTV system is only as good as its weakest geponent.I usually stick with RG59U with power Coleman cable (YES it is US made) sometimes called Siamese type cable. It is gebo cable and will transmit video and power, as an alternative it is sometimes possible to use less expensive RG6 standard coax cable with separate run of 18/2AWG for power. The Siamese cable is less bulky and easer to run, distribution power supply is regemended with this type of cable as power will be supplied from gemon place right next to monitor and recording equipment. Using Siamese cable makes for more clean and neat installation, as only one line is required for each camera. Running RG6 cable with separate run for power is the likely solution if power outlets are available near each camera locations. In this case individual plug in power supplies are used to power the cameras with power cable running as separate and independent line to the camera. Both types of cables are available at www.dvrexperts.ge. When running the cable it is good practice to leave couple of loops of extra cable at both camera and monitoring locations. This extra length of cable is needed if in the future monitoring or camera location will have to be moved slightly. After the cable is in place, the labor-intensive part of installation is over, now we can get to the fun part of installation.
Camera mounting:Most cameras gee with mounting screws and bracket included, attach the bracket firmly and remember that in some cases different brackets than the ones supplied with the cameras mite be needed, for example drop sealing installation will require T-Rail camera bracket like the one available at www.dvrexperts.ge.Attach the camera to the bracket and adjust the camera position approximately at this time, we will gee back to it later. Typical security camera is powered by 12VDC or 24VAC and power input type is screw or push terminals or 2.1mm plug. Power connection will differ for each type of power supply and input style. Most cameras are 12VDC, in this case it is important to observe polarity or you may damage the camera. The power cable has two conductors and in most cases it will be red or white and black cable. Use the red or white for positive and black for negative terminals. If your camera has screw or push terminals power input connect the cable directly observing polarity, if it is 2.1mm plug, a special 2.1MM Female DC Plug with Flying Leads have to be connected to the cable again keep attention to polarity. You may get the power plug from www.dvrexperts.ge. The 24VAC connection is very similar, with one major difference - polarity is not important.Next step will involve some special tools and accessories.We will attempt to go over installation process of BNC crimp-on video connector, I will post video demonstration of BNC crimping techniques shortly so please check the web sites mentioned in this article often. Steps:1. Remove about 1/2-inch long outer jacket from the end of video cable exposing braid.2. Slide the crimping barrel onto the cable with the larger diameter facing end of the cable.3. Pull the braid backwards exposing the inner isolator material and remove 3/8-inch of it so you have now core conductor exposed.4. The main part of BNC connector has a small hole on one side; push the exposed core conductor of the cable into that hole as far as it will go.5. Push all the braid folded backwards in step 3 onto the BNC connector and spread the braid evenly around connector.6. Push the crimping barrel onto the BNC connector all the way.7. Using crimping tool, squeeze the crimping barrel onto the BNC connector, now the cable braid is gepressed in between crimping barrel and BNC connector assuring secure connection.
BNC connector is on, lets hook it up now and repeat the steps for each camera, if you have purchased 16 camera system you may want to get some coffee first.
Monitor and recorder connection:Cameras are on, its time to make final connections. I will focused on standard CCTV monitor, standalone DVR recorder and distribution power supply, as this is the most popular and likely solution for most CCTV installations.First we have to install BNC connectors on this side as well - its time for that coffee again.It is good idea to make room for monitor and recorder now and setup some type of desk, shelf or rack to place all the equipment on.We need the monitor and recorder in place so we can determine proper power supply location. Power supply should be mounted within couple of feet from the DVR video inputs.After power supply is secured separate the power conductors from the Siamese cable, and run it to power supply. Like we did with the cameras if 12VDC power is used, we need to watch the polarity, each terminal on the power supply is marked, so there should not be any doubt. Make sure the power supply is not plugged in to the power outlet yet.Connect video cables to the DVR video in ports. We need one video cable to connect the DVR with the monitor, if you do not have one you may cut piece of Siamese cable separate the power conductors from it and install BNC connectors on both ends, you now have the cable.Connect the DVR monitor out port to monitor video in.We are almost ready to power up everything; there is only one more thing to take care before we do that.We need to protect the equipment from power spikes by plugging it into power conditioner or better yet buttery backup unit. If the installation location is experiencing frequent power outages, the backup unit is strongly regemended. To extend the backup time only plug the DVR and camera power supply to the backup unit and the monitor to regular power strip, this way if we do loose power for some time the DVR and cameras are still functioning as normal while monitor is off. Turning off monitor will not affect DVR and cameras in any way; it is actually good habit to turn the monitor of if not used to extend its life.
Power on and final adjustment:Yes we are now ready to power it up for the first time, if this is your first installation it may be nerve-racking experience.Start with turning the cameras power supply on; turn the monitor on as well followed by DVR system. The stand-alone DVR after self-test will show cameras or setup menu on first power up depending on your model.To setup the DVR refer to the manual for proper settings.Go over each camera view to determine if the camera view is actually what you want,very rarely it will be the first time. To properly and easily adjust camera positions the test monitor will be very handy if not essential tool. Go to each camera location and connect the test monitor to adjust camera position to your preferences, if satisfied secure camera bracket adjustment screws - we will not go back to this camera anymore.
Conclusion:Congratulations! You have just gepleted your most likely very first installation of CCTV system.Visit our store fore more information on surveillance cameras, DVR recorders, tools and accessories.
Visit our okay store AmazingOutlet.
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